Truck: 96 4x4 Sport 5.2L 5spd 140k

Problem: I went outside last night, turned the key. The engine cranked for half a second and then stopped. Then there was no pressure on the key. You know how there's a spring that returns the key to ON position from START. That's not doing anything at all. The key rolls directly from OFF, past ON, and will just sit in the START position, but nothing happens. I think the warning lights change depending on the position, but that's it. No whirring noise, no rolling over, no nothing.

The battery is strong.

Any ideas? Hoping this won't be too expensive.

Sort of sounds like this problem:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...not-crank.html
But he is not reporting the problem with the ignition switch going limp.

It has never done anything like this before. Always started up until yesterday.

Prior Symptoms: The clutch relay is a little picky. You really have to shove the clutch ALL the way to floor in order to start the truck. However, that has never prevented me from starting before.

 

Sounds like a broken ignition switch to me. They run about $30 depending where you go.

 

Thanks shadowops! Is there a write-up on how to replace it?

Do you think it can be done in a parking lot before my fingers freeze?

If not, would it be hard to hot-wire the truck so I can drive it to a warm garage to do the rest?

 

Check the FAQ in this section for the service manual. It gives great details on the R&R.

 

Thanks for your help yesterday. Here's my progress: After much confusion and freezing of hands I got the column cowls off last night. Then to my surprise, the ignition switch is held on with Security Torx bolts (the kind with the pin in the center so you can't fit your regular Torx driver in). I'm tearing my hair out.

Is there an easy way to break or grind that pin off? If not, is there likely to be a local store where I can buy the security Torx drivers?

At the risk of sounding like an idiot... What is R&R?

So I have a Haynes manual. It is OK, but not really good. Not enough pictures. They don't tell you where the bolts are. Sort of vague. I cussed a lot. Which manual is best?

 

An industrial supplier would probably be the best bet, something like a Grainger. Harbor Freight lists them on their website but I can't tell you if they've got them in the store.

 

R&R= Remove & Reinstall. The Haynes is like 100 pages. The factory service manual is like 2,000 pages. The Haynes is junk. Just download the manual we got.

 

Sears had the security bits. Finally got the thing off. Turns out it's the lock cylinder, not the switch.

See the broken off tab? Look for the lighter color where it broke.



Does anyone know how to tumble one of these things when I get the new one so that I can use my old key?

 

LOL! That is the exact problem I get every year or so. I have replaced that little piece 4 times. I have just gotten a lock from the junkyard and swap that piece. It is attached to the shaft by a pin. Just tap it out and.

 

Interesting that you've had this problem too. Oreilly has a lifetime warranty cylinder, so I may but it there so I can get free replacement if this happens again.

Tap it out as in tap on it with a hammer or tap it out as in drill it out? Tap where? Is the pin visible in the photo? Sorry for being so slow and thanks for all of your help!