I have replaced the thermostat, the water pump, and all of the hoses (as well as the belt). I have fixed the major leak we were dealing with but did NOT fix the Heater Problem.

Basically, the motor temperature is not coming up to normal or even close to normal and the temp of the air coming out of the defrost is cold when driving slow and barely warm when going down the interstate.

After changing all of the above, I'm at a loss? I look forward to and as always appreciate the help!!

 

You should flush out the heater core. Take off the heater hoses. Run a garden hose through the core side. Keep on flushing out till its clear and looks good. Do it in reverse flow.

 

Crazy, would that account for the motor temp not coming up as well though?

Thanks for the tip. I will probably try that tomorrow.

 

Probably not relate to the motor. The motor temp might be due to a bad coolant temp sensor. There are 2. One 1 wire for the gauge. One 2 wire for the computer. Both behind the thermostat housing.

 

Thanks again! You don't think there is a chance in blazes that the brand new Thermostat would be bad do you?

 

Yes it is also a possibility! You could of gotten a lower temp thermostat too. Normal is 190.

 

I thought about the lower temp therm and was looking for my receipt last night but couldn't find it. Thanks again Crazy!

 

^^^+1 ,prolly a low temp t-stat. Non OEM parts have just gotten crappy and crappier out of the box over last few years. A buddy of mine went through 2 alternators from autozone that were bad out of the box, 3rd time he had them to test the next one before he left the store. Well it was bad also, the next one was finally a good one. Now when I buy alts.,starters,and batteries, I have them tested before i leave the store.

 

I have had a few thermostats be bad out of the box. All were "fail safe". I never buy them anymore and haven't had any problems with the standard ones.

 

Crazy, I found the box the therm came in and it is a 195 degree thermostat.

GR and Wood, interestingly enough, this is a failsafe therm from Autozone.

Are there any fool proof methods of testing without pulling it out and doing the hot water test? Like would the radiator hoses be different temps? I guess that would only be if it was stuck closed right? In that case I would be heating up motor instead of not getting temp in it right?

Thanks again everyone!!