Master Cylinder
They do make an in line check valve for the braking system. They come in variable pressures. And they will hold the correct pressure for the brakes.
What they do is hold just enough pressure in the line before the pressure is met to apply the brakes. And when you release the brakes they will back the pressure off just enough but not all the way. They make the brakes more responsive. Very nice to have.
In other words, if you install a 5psi valve it will hold 5psi in the line at all times. When in actuality you need say 8psi to get the brakes to apply. and back off back to 5psi and release breaks.
I think I seen them advertised on Power Block TV.
You can even check a local high performance race shop as well unless checkers is stocking them now?
What they do is hold just enough pressure in the line before the pressure is met to apply the brakes. And when you release the brakes they will back the pressure off just enough but not all the way. They make the brakes more responsive. Very nice to have.
In other words, if you install a 5psi valve it will hold 5psi in the line at all times. When in actuality you need say 8psi to get the brakes to apply. and back off back to 5psi and release breaks.
I think I seen them advertised on Power Block TV.
You can even check a local high performance race shop as well unless checkers is stocking them now?
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: NM
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/brake02.pdf
This is pretty much exactly what my friend told me about it. He said he has seen many people swap in rear discs without losing this check valve the pressure it holds on the system will burn up the pads.
This is pretty much exactly what my friend told me about it. He said he has seen many people swap in rear discs without losing this check valve the pressure it holds on the system will burn up the pads.
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Joined: May 2008
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From: Apex, NC
I just found this guide to braking systems and have been reading it...
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Brakes/
From what I've read so far, I will be scrapping the entire brake system on my truck except the pedal and booster. The master cylinder needs to go because even if it doesn't have that check valve (and it doesn't look like it does according to the FSM), the resevoir in a disc/drum MC on the drum side is too small to be an effective substitute for a disc/disc MC. The combination valve has to go because it is set up to run the factory brakes and I won't have anything factory left! The ABS system has to go because the 14 bolt doesn't have the sensor setup.
So I need to find a master cylinder that will fit the booster and is big enough for the 3/4 ton DPC brakes! I need to set up an aftermarket proportioning valve and dial it in, and run all the brake lines.
Ugh... just one more thing to add to the list during this swap!
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Brakes/
From what I've read so far, I will be scrapping the entire brake system on my truck except the pedal and booster. The master cylinder needs to go because even if it doesn't have that check valve (and it doesn't look like it does according to the FSM), the resevoir in a disc/drum MC on the drum side is too small to be an effective substitute for a disc/disc MC. The combination valve has to go because it is set up to run the factory brakes and I won't have anything factory left! The ABS system has to go because the 14 bolt doesn't have the sensor setup.
So I need to find a master cylinder that will fit the booster and is big enough for the 3/4 ton DPC brakes! I need to set up an aftermarket proportioning valve and dial it in, and run all the brake lines.
Ugh... just one more thing to add to the list during this swap!
Last edited by 95_318SLT; Mar 7, 2010 at 02:45 AM.
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Joined: Mar 2011
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I don't see a residual valve in my 1991 dakota. Both outlets looks the same. All you can see is the inverted flair inside of the MC casting.. Is the residual valve inside of the porportionaing valve mounted on the frame rail?