New Performance parts!!
#1
03-26-2010 | 05:45 PM
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From: NM
New Performance parts!!
So I sold my Dragster Trans Am. I didn't take it to the track anymore. So I decided to put the money into the truck.
1st I ordered a 53mm Throttle Body off of ebay for $236.00 with shipping.
2nd I ordered Harland Sharps 1.7 roller rockers. From summitracing For $362.90 with shipping.
So first to come was the Throttle body. I was going to go with the Fastmans 52mm (51.75mm).
I basically bored out mine with my drimel tool bit. I'm sure Fastmans would conceder it damaged and not return the core charge. The 53mm is of coarse bigger then the 51.75mm from fastmans and no core charge and $1 more. But the fastmans has a nice chamfer on it. But the drimel took care of that.
Very simple install. Just unbolt everything and bolt in the new one. Took 15 minutes!
Now what everyone wants to hear about the Power increase!!! I do feel a slight increase. When taking off the line I can spin the tires a little bit more. The Hissing sound when at cold starts and Idle had dropped dramatical. The biggest difference is when it comes up to shift, it used to have a slight dip in power before the shift. Now it continues the power through the next shift. I may even be able to adjust the TV cable some more to get some more RPMS out of each shift.
I will post on th Rocker Arms soon.
1st I ordered a 53mm Throttle Body off of ebay for $236.00 with shipping.
2nd I ordered Harland Sharps 1.7 roller rockers. From summitracing For $362.90 with shipping.
So first to come was the Throttle body. I was going to go with the Fastmans 52mm (51.75mm).
I basically bored out mine with my drimel tool bit. I'm sure Fastmans would conceder it damaged and not return the core charge. The 53mm is of coarse bigger then the 51.75mm from fastmans and no core charge and $1 more. But the fastmans has a nice chamfer on it. But the drimel took care of that.
Very simple install. Just unbolt everything and bolt in the new one. Took 15 minutes!
Now what everyone wants to hear about the Power increase!!! I do feel a slight increase. When taking off the line I can spin the tires a little bit more. The Hissing sound when at cold starts and Idle had dropped dramatical. The biggest difference is when it comes up to shift, it used to have a slight dip in power before the shift. Now it continues the power through the next shift. I may even be able to adjust the TV cable some more to get some more RPMS out of each shift.
I will post on th Rocker Arms soon.
JK!!
#3
03-26-2010 | 06:11 PM
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From: NM
Next is the Harland Sharp 1.7 Roller Rockers. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CS...7&autoview=sku
So I just got these in yesterday. With these they will work as a direct bolt on kit. Other rockers you need to have larger valve covers, difference push rods, studs or a rocker guides, or even some machine work.
First the Rockers don't come with any instructions. There is only a warranty paper. The warranty paper says you must soak the rockers overnight in a brake in oil in with a high Zinc content.
The other instructions I got was off of this post. For some reason it doesn't come up on the fist time it pulls up. Click on it a 2nd time. http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-32.html
And I got some info off of this post. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...r-install.html
Remove plug wires, hoses and move the wiring harness out of the way. Take off the valve covers. 11mm deep socket.
Next take off the old rockers. With a 1/2 socket. Just Incase place them in a safe box.
Finally you get to bolt on the new Rocker arms. Place the Allen head blot in the Rocker arm then the spacer underneath with the head at the bottom. Then thread down the bolts. Alternate in between the rockers when tightening, so you don't bind up the shaft. Make sure the push rods are in the correct spot. It is a 1/4in Allen head socket.
Tighten each one to 15Ft-Lbs. Once all done tighten all down to 21Ft-Lbs. Then done.
At first start up it ran like $hit. It felt like it had 2-3 misses. I started thinking I messed something up. I just let it run at idle for a little bit, it slowly cleared up. Once it was smoother the idle started looping like a high cam does. After 5 minutes it was smooth and normal.
They do have a little tick to them when the idle is a little low. But not bad at all. A thicker oil may help.
And again what everyone wants to know the Power Increase!!!
It pulls A LOT more at 3,000 Rpms-up. Off the line I get more slippage from the tires at take off. When entering the next gear it really has a strong pull.
Just remember this is not a giant One all power increase like a supercharger or a turbo. These and all modifications do best with other modifications like open intake system and exhaust ect!
Note: Some valves may be full open. You may hit the Allen head wrench when tightening it down. I didn't hit nothing but for others you need to read this. Here is a copy and paste from the link above.
So I just got these in yesterday. With these they will work as a direct bolt on kit. Other rockers you need to have larger valve covers, difference push rods, studs or a rocker guides, or even some machine work.
First the Rockers don't come with any instructions. There is only a warranty paper. The warranty paper says you must soak the rockers overnight in a brake in oil in with a high Zinc content.
The other instructions I got was off of this post. For some reason it doesn't come up on the fist time it pulls up. Click on it a 2nd time. http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-32.html
And I got some info off of this post. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...r-install.html
Remove plug wires, hoses and move the wiring harness out of the way. Take off the valve covers. 11mm deep socket.
Next take off the old rockers. With a 1/2 socket. Just Incase place them in a safe box.
Finally you get to bolt on the new Rocker arms. Place the Allen head blot in the Rocker arm then the spacer underneath with the head at the bottom. Then thread down the bolts. Alternate in between the rockers when tightening, so you don't bind up the shaft. Make sure the push rods are in the correct spot. It is a 1/4in Allen head socket.
Tighten each one to 15Ft-Lbs. Once all done tighten all down to 21Ft-Lbs. Then done.
At first start up it ran like $hit. It felt like it had 2-3 misses. I started thinking I messed something up. I just let it run at idle for a little bit, it slowly cleared up. Once it was smoother the idle started looping like a high cam does. After 5 minutes it was smooth and normal.
They do have a little tick to them when the idle is a little low. But not bad at all. A thicker oil may help.
And again what everyone wants to know the Power Increase!!!
It pulls A LOT more at 3,000 Rpms-up. Off the line I get more slippage from the tires at take off. When entering the next gear it really has a strong pull.
Just remember this is not a giant One all power increase like a supercharger or a turbo. These and all modifications do best with other modifications like open intake system and exhaust ect!
Note: Some valves may be full open. You may hit the Allen head wrench when tightening it down. I didn't hit nothing but for others you need to read this. Here is a copy and paste from the link above.
Because we aren't worried about bringing each cylinder to TDC the cylinder that we are on may be at an intake or exhaust phase of the combustion cycle. As you tighten down the rocker you will notice it pushing down on the valve. We chose to get the rockers as snug as we could in the position that they were in. Because we were working on a Dakota and space in the front of the engine was limited we did not turn the crank to let the tension off the valve. If you have room, and you feel so inclined to do so, you can rotate the engine as you go so that the cylinder that you are working on has no load on the valves (TDC). Doing so will allow you to torque down the rockers fully. In our case we did not feel like pulling anything off the front of the engine to gain access to the crank pulley nor did I even have a socket large enough to fit the bolt in it. We simply bolted the rockers onto each cylinder as the engine was in its cycle. The only problem with doing this is that on a few cylinders the exhaust or intake valve will be fully opened. In this case, as you tighten down the rocker it will pivot to a point where the portion of the rocker around the Allen head will contact your Allen socket. As you can see in this picture, the middle rocker made contact with the bit which slightly scratched the edge.
For these rockers, simply take them down as much as you can, we were still able to get the spacer to seat against the head but if we'd torque it down the bit would have cut into the rocker.
For these rockers, simply take them down as much as you can, we were still able to get the spacer to seat against the head but if we'd torque it down the bit would have cut into the rocker.
Last edited by Crazy4x4RT; 08-05-2012 at 07:04 PM.
#5
03-27-2010 | 02:25 AM
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From: NM
At first start up it ran like $hit. It felt like it had 2-3 misses. I started thinking I messed something up. I just let it run at idle for a little bit, it slowly cleared up. Once it was smoother the idle started looping like a high cam does. After 5 minutes it was smooth and normal.
They do have a little tick to them when the idle is a little low. But not bad at all. A thicker oil may help.
And again what everyone wants to know the Power Increase!!!
It pulls A LOT more at 3,000 Rpms-up. Off the line I get more slippage from the tires at take off. When entering the next gear it really has a strong pull.
They do have a little tick to them when the idle is a little low. But not bad at all. A thicker oil may help.
And again what everyone wants to know the Power Increase!!!
It pulls A LOT more at 3,000 Rpms-up. Off the line I get more slippage from the tires at take off. When entering the next gear it really has a strong pull.
#7
03-27-2010 | 02:35 PM
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From: NM
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#8
03-27-2010 | 07:33 PM
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From: new glasgow, nova scotia
the great thing about an 89 over you guys is the timing is adjustable, you can make the most out of engine enhancements.
nice setup crazy, my only question is are you using factory rods, lifters and cam? i would go for the complete swap.
nothing personal crazy but a computer controls your truck. in my day i controlled every aspect of fuel and power. thats why i love those old carbed big american V-8's dude.
nice setup crazy, my only question is are you using factory rods, lifters and cam? i would go for the complete swap.
nothing personal crazy but a computer controls your truck. in my day i controlled every aspect of fuel and power. thats why i love those old carbed big american V-8's dude.
Last edited by mazda7475; 03-27-2010 at 07:48 PM.
#9
03-28-2010 | 02:24 AM
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From: NM
the great thing about an 89 over you guys is the timing is adjustable, you can make the most out of engine enhancements.
nice setup crazy, my only question is are you using factory rods, lifters and cam? i would go for the complete swap.
nothing personal crazy but a computer controls your truck. in my day i controlled every aspect of fuel and power. thats why i love those old carbed big american V-8's dude.
nice setup crazy, my only question is are you using factory rods, lifters and cam? i would go for the complete swap.
nothing personal crazy but a computer controls your truck. in my day i controlled every aspect of fuel and power. thats why i love those old carbed big american V-8's dude.
Yes I am using factory rods, lifters, cam. That is the reason for the 1.7 rockers. If I steeped up the cam I would have to keep the 1.6 rockers and upgrade EVERYTHING else from valves, springs ect. So for a simple swap that only took 1 hour to do. Which is what I was after, it was perfect. Now if I was building a race engine TONS more would be different, TONS more money and TONS more time!!
Sorry like before I think Stock Carbs are JUNK. High end aftermarket ones are not bad though! Just like Carbs Aftermarket Fuel Injection is best! And with Electronic fuel injection you can adjust everything you need with a computer, don't even need a screw driver.
#10
06-26-2011 | 02:53 PM
Bit of a thread necro here and for that I apologize.
But do those Rocker arms effect gas mileage at all?
I have so much I want to do to my truck but I want to keep it as a daily driver so thats why I'm asking the question.
I'm really considering doing these when I do my Valve cover gaskets soon. So if anyone knows the answer to this I'd greatly appreciate it.
PS: I figured posting in an already made thread would be better then just making a new one.
But do those Rocker arms effect gas mileage at all?
I have so much I want to do to my truck but I want to keep it as a daily driver so thats why I'm asking the question.
I'm really considering doing these when I do my Valve cover gaskets soon. So if anyone knows the answer to this I'd greatly appreciate it.
PS: I figured posting in an already made thread would be better then just making a new one.