92 V8 4x4, wanting lift
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92 V8 4x4, wanting lift
Hey guys! I have been thinking of getting a lift for some time now. I do not want a body lift. ( no changing my mind) and i have a leveling kit now but it isn't enough so i took it off. I am looking at the trailmaster 4 inch suspension lift. I am running 31x10.50 right now, no lift except for turned torsion bars. Could i squeeze some 35x12.50's or would i be with 33x12.50's? And if you have this lift on your truck could you please post pics or just info on your tire setup! Thanks guys
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From: middle of texas
get some 2"bill. aluminum spacers for your self and spoon out the fenders for just taller wider tires. the trail master is over priced for its lack of durability unless you plan on not going off road or abusing it
axle swap for the win imo thats what im going to do
axle swap for the win imo thats what im going to do
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From: NM
What leveling kit did you have? What did it include?
Why don't you want a body kit. There is NOTHING wrong with them. Easy and cheep and it gives you tons more room around the engine/ transmission.
The Trail master kit is not bad. It says you only can run 33. My guess is you can run 35's.
I got enough room for 35's with re-indexed keys and a 2in BODY Lift.
The best price for the kit is from here. http://www.streetperformance.com/par...9-dd43ssv.html
The installation of the kit can be found here. http://www.walt-n-ingrid.com/modifications.html
That link and TONS more lifting Ideas are in the FAQ2 in this section.
For 35's you would want a lower ratio (higher numerical) then 4.10. But there are no lower front ring and pinions.
Why don't you want a body kit. There is NOTHING wrong with them. Easy and cheep and it gives you tons more room around the engine/ transmission.
The Trail master kit is not bad. It says you only can run 33. My guess is you can run 35's.
I got enough room for 35's with re-indexed keys and a 2in BODY Lift.
The best price for the kit is from here. http://www.streetperformance.com/par...9-dd43ssv.html
The installation of the kit can be found here. http://www.walt-n-ingrid.com/modifications.html
That link and TONS more lifting Ideas are in the FAQ2 in this section.
For 35's you would want a lower ratio (higher numerical) then 4.10. But there are no lower front ring and pinions.
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Leveling kit is on ebay - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1991-...ht_1641wt_1167
this kit was really good leveling kit, raised mine 3" front 2" back, but driveshaft was put at an angle and it was making my WHOLE truck shake.
I don't really like the idea of the body lift because i don't like the look of them but if you give me more details of how they're good i might be persuaded.
And do they not have 4.56 gears for the front? I was told that was the next step in gears but that was for the back...
this kit was really good leveling kit, raised mine 3" front 2" back, but driveshaft was put at an angle and it was making my WHOLE truck shake.
I don't really like the idea of the body lift because i don't like the look of them but if you give me more details of how they're good i might be persuaded.
And do they not have 4.56 gears for the front? I was told that was the next step in gears but that was for the back...
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From: NM
Technically a leveling kit is just a kit to lift the front 1in or so. Due to trucks are made with the rear higher then the front. That is where the leveling kit name comes from.
A lift kit lifts the hole truck.
The ebay kit is a lift kit. It is a good kit.
With that kit installed and the torsion bars with the re-indexed keys cranked all the way safely, stop when the control arms hits the bump stops.
The ebay kit is good for 2-3in. Then the body kit is good for another 2in. 4-5in total. That will clear 33's easy. With a little fender clearing you maybe able to fit 35's.
The body kit is very simple to install. Just unbolt the body bolts then use a simple jack to lift the body and slide the spacers in. The spacers are strong and will hold any load. They add in 2in of space in between the body and frame. This makes TONS more room under the hood and makes great space in between the engine/ transmission and body.
I never tired 35's but it looks like I can clear them. Also I would say 33s are the limit on the front axle. It probably will hold 35's fine, but to have strength left for off roading challenges may cause it to fail.
We had 1 member who installed 38's on his truck. He continued to bust the CV's spider gears ect.
A lift kit lifts the hole truck.
The ebay kit is a lift kit. It is a good kit.
With that kit installed and the torsion bars with the re-indexed keys cranked all the way safely, stop when the control arms hits the bump stops.
The ebay kit is good for 2-3in. Then the body kit is good for another 2in. 4-5in total. That will clear 33's easy. With a little fender clearing you maybe able to fit 35's.
The body kit is very simple to install. Just unbolt the body bolts then use a simple jack to lift the body and slide the spacers in. The spacers are strong and will hold any load. They add in 2in of space in between the body and frame. This makes TONS more room under the hood and makes great space in between the engine/ transmission and body.
I never tired 35's but it looks like I can clear them. Also I would say 33s are the limit on the front axle. It probably will hold 35's fine, but to have strength left for off roading challenges may cause it to fail.
We had 1 member who installed 38's on his truck. He continued to bust the CV's spider gears ect.
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Yezzir I understand about the 38's messin with stuff. lol
well i would consider a body lift, if i can find a solution to the lowered hitch system. I can fix the custom bumper but i have no clue how the hitch system is bolted? I want it to look as though there is no body lift as far as exhaust, bumpers and hitch.
well i would consider a body lift, if i can find a solution to the lowered hitch system. I can fix the custom bumper but i have no clue how the hitch system is bolted? I want it to look as though there is no body lift as far as exhaust, bumpers and hitch.
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From: NM
The hitch is bolted to the frame. It will stay in the same spot.
The only reason the bumpers are needed to be move is to put them back close to the body. Close the gap.
Then the gap in between the bumper and the hitch is not bad at all. My hitch was too close to my bumper in my opinion. But after the body lift it fit just right.
Here is a quick pic of my hitch. All you can see is the shackle receiver.
The only reason the bumpers are needed to be move is to put them back close to the body. Close the gap.
Then the gap in between the bumper and the hitch is not bad at all. My hitch was too close to my bumper in my opinion. But after the body lift it fit just right.
Here is a quick pic of my hitch. All you can see is the shackle receiver.