1st Gen Dakota Tech 1987 - 1996 Dodge Dakota Tech - The ultimate forum for technical help on the 1st Gen Dakota.

Anybody racing a 1st. gen Dakota?

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Old May 25, 2010 | 01:18 PM
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The ball joints are by far the weakest point on these truck!! They've been notorious for eating through them all the way through the first and second generation. But, if you get a good quality brand ball joint and keep them greased, they should be fine. I think the biggest reason the ball joints go out is because people don't keep them greased.

The biggest problem with the transmissions in these trucks is keeping them cool. So if you get a really good transmission cooler, you should be fine.

About the transmissions... the TF 727 is a 36rh. Same transmission, different name. The 46rh is a TF727/36rh with an electronic overdrive unit in its tail. So if you turn off OD, you have a 727. But the overdrive unit IMO would be way to weak for a racing application!

I don't know about the front differential. Maybe you could get the 2nd gen differential in with a little bit of work (not sure what they used in the gen 2s), but chances are it would have to be a custom built application. In other words, get a dana 35 or maybe even a 44 and shorten it, get custom half shafts made for it, and fabricate the mounts required to hang it and weld them on. But yeah, I would definately replace the 7.25"... its weak and the gearing options for it are very limited.

Oh, and I mentioned how tough my 318 is because the 3.9L is a 5.2L minus 2 cylinders! Same pistons, rings, bearings, etc. Only the camshaft, crankshaft, heads, intake (everything that spans one end to the other) is different in that its shorter.
 
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Old May 26, 2010 | 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 95_318SLT
About the transmissions... the TF 727 is a 36rh,...
Oops. Typo in my post, I meant the weight difference between a -727 and a 46RH, little slip-up there. Sorry,...
The ball joints are by far the weakest point on these truck!! They've been notorious for eating through them all the way through the first and second generation. But, if you get a good quality brand ball joint and keep them greased, they should be fine. I think the biggest reason the ball joints go out is because people don't keep them greased.
That was what I didn't want to hear. The 2 things I was worried about up front are the ball joints and the half shafts. In many of the stock classes they make you run the stock arms - no mods. It's not unusual for the trucks to carry full sets of arms on board and the tools to change them out.
I don't know anything about the Dodge IFS. Do the half-shafts have a 2-peice splined shaft, or do they get what little play they have through the CVs like the Chevy system?
The biggest problem with the transmissions in these trucks is keeping them cool. So if you get a really good transmission cooler, you should be fine.
I guess I have an advantage there. The auto Jeep used in the Cherokee/Comanche is known for heat production. Huge coolers are a must.
I don't know about the front differential. Maybe you could get the 2nd gen differential in with a little bit of work (not sure what they used in the gen 2s), but chances are it would have to be a custom built application,... ...,definately replace the 7.25"... its weak and the gearing options for it are very limited.
I read somewhere here on the forum(can't find the thread just now) that the Dak used a version of the 7.25, the dana 35, and the AAM 8.0 up front. The -35 has a bad rep in jeep circles, but because it was put in every jeep built from '87 to '06, there are tons of LS, lockers, and gears for it. They make 4.88 gears for it! In a front application, it should be ok. Assuming(again, have to check) the CV flanges are the same width, it should swap with at most a bracket change/mod. Just a thought for now, but I'd have to do something. 4.10 gears are way to high for desert racing.(that's scary, isn't it?)
EDIT: Found it. 'Was on Randy's ring and pinion: http://www.ringpinion.com/DiffList.a...215&Side=Front
and I mentioned how tough my 318 is because the 3.9L is a 5.2L minus 2 cylinders! Same pistons, rings, bearings, etc. Only the camshaft, crankshaft, heads, intake (everything that spans one end to the other) is different in that its shorter.
Knew that. 'Whole family of engines are great! Funny; I had a '70 coronet with a 318 that was rated at 210 flywheel HP, and the 3.9 is rated at 175/180 rear wheel HP. Apples-apples the 3.9mag makes more power then the LA-318 2-bbl.
 

Last edited by tbburg; May 26, 2010 at 01:34 AM.
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Old May 26, 2010 | 01:41 AM
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Originally Posted by tbburg
That was what I didn't want to hear. The 2 things I was worried about up front are the ball joints and the half shafts. In many of the stock classes they make you run the stock arms - no mods. It's not unusual for the trucks to carry full sets of arms on board and the tools to change them out.
I don't know anything about the Dodge IFS. Do the half-shafts have a 2-peice splined shaft, or do they get what little play they have through the CVs like the Chevy system?
IMO, no truck's IFS is strong! They are all severely limited in multiple ways. Thats why I'm doing a solid axle swap on mine!! But like with anything else on a car, if you do no maintenance on mechanical parts, they will wear out prematurely. And I'm convinced thats the reason for Dodge's bad rep where the ball joints are concerned. How many average owners actually grease them on a regular basis? I greased mine every oil change and never had a problem!

I'm not sure about the CV half shaft.
 
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Old May 27, 2010 | 12:33 AM
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how do you grease a ball joint
 
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Old May 27, 2010 | 12:37 AM
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There should be a zerk fitting on it....

Now there are sealed (ungreasable) ball joints, but ours should be greaseable.... mine were.
 
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Old May 27, 2010 | 12:45 AM
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great thanks ive been needing to do that cause i dont think that the prrevious owner did it if he never changed the oil
 
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Old May 27, 2010 | 12:49 AM
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Hahaha! Yeah, probably not!

Anyway, it will look like this...

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Just grease it with a grease gun.
 

Last edited by 95_318SLT; May 27, 2010 at 12:52 AM.
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Old May 27, 2010 | 01:10 AM
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that will be a project for tomorrow and i will start my engine rebuild on saturday any
suggestions besides use the buddy system cause inm going to do it with out pulling the motor just lifting it up and dropping the oil pan ang going up from the bottom
 
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