On a 1999, you have a gigantic ace card you won't have carburated.

Pick up a COMPETENT OBDII reader (NOT a scanner!).

What I had on my Malibu was an Amazon-sourced ELM327 Bluetooth pod, and was running Torque (Paid, but was only $5 or so! There IS a free version that will do this also) on my Android smartphone.

With that, you can find out what the sensors are reporting and what the ECU thinks is happening - a window into the car's "soul", as it were, you do NOT get with a carburator.

With what's not happening that way (are the O2s stuck full rich or full lean? How's the long term trim on the O2s? What does the throttle position sensor say about the throttle position? What's commanded on the idle air controller, and does that make sense? What timing is it generating? etc. etc.) it can become MUCH easier to deduce what the problem is.

For what it's worth, most of my carbed vehicles I've had would pull that same stunt unless I was constantly after it to keep it tuned just right. I'm lazy, why should I do a repeatitive task the computer can do faster and more accurately?

RwP

I know that O2 and TPS work too regulate fuel that is being injected into motor. But the power too the injectors is being shutoff, the fuel pump still runs and builds up pressure. I replaced the relays but something else is shutting the power off too the injectors. There hasn't been know check engine lite coming on this hole time, it's something non electronic.

When cold, the O2s aren't used since the gas flow isn't hot enough to do any good.

If it's not firing the injectors, time to borrow a set of NOID lights and verify that the injectors aren't being fired, and if they aren't, time to chase back to the ECU.

Also, I wouldn't put any trust in the MIL not lighting up - could be something like a burned out bulb!

And again, I'm not talking about just pulling error codes - I'm talking about tapping into the raw (or formatted!) data stream the ECU is using.

If the ECU won't talk to you, that also tells you something - the ECU isn't working. Then it's first check grounds, power, and the contacts for fretting, then worry about the ECU. A reman'ed ECU is still cheaper than swapping to carbed, since you have to replace so much of the systems to get rid of the EFI.

RwP

I am in the process of changing my 2001 Dodge Durango 5.9 With a new crate motor bored 30 over. To a carbureted intake with a carburetor. Everything was working fine and I got a no bus code and I have been trying for almost a year to find the problem causing the no bus I've changed the computer I've changed sensors I've inspected every bit of the wiring harness and I cannot come up with a solution to the no bus. Mine's a 4 by 4 with a 6" lift 33 by 12.5" tires the whole front end's been rebuilt both differentials have been rebuilt transmissions benrey built the engine has been rebuilt and bored 30 over. So at this point I really have no other options but to change it over to a corporator and throw the computer away but my main question is will my 46RE transmission function function without the computer computer it runs on hydraulic pumps not computer controlled but I but I'm not sure if it will still function without the computer once I change it. So any ideas on what's causing the no bus? Or any idea whether or not that 46RE transmission will function when I changed it over to a corporator??

Uhh ...

If you're going no-EFI, do the job right and get a non-computer-controlled transmission and rip that ECU out.

If you're sticking with the ECU, go back to the EFI.

Don't half-**** it man. Do it 100%, or don't do at all.

But if you're troubleshooting NO BUS - you need to find out where on the CAN bus it's hanging.

Try unplugging sensors and secondary ECUs one at a time until you get the bus back.

RwP

I have a 92 Ford ranger that I want to put a almost new 3.6 Dodge engine in it. Don't shame me for driving a Ford. Broken pore :-) but to the best of my knowledge all I need to do since it has a distributor is to change intakes.. I know that they make them and as far as that goes you can use a regular carburetor intake was a little modification. But I don't want to modify and I'm having trouble finding one. Would like to spend under a couple hundred bucks on the intake. My first question is can someone help me find one because I don't know exactly what to ask for. Question 2 is can y'all think of any other complications except for maybe the accelerator capable / pedal which is not a big deal

Since no one else has answered, ill take a stab at it......
Assuming you are talking about the 3.6 pentastar that was introduced in 2011.....
First, I wont shame you, heck, IMO swaps are what hotrodding is all about. Gone on for years, from Chevy engines and Hemi engines being put in Model T and A's for ever.
You say that you can put a distributor and carb. on this motor..... Could you link where you are going to purchase it from?
FWIW this is posted in the first gen (87-96) dakota section, and that engine was never used until 2011 so I doubt you will find much information in this section.
But do look forward to hearing back from you.