1) What is required to remove the IP trim panel to access the radio? I have removed the 8 screws and it is still attached at the knee bolster on the steering column.

2) Radio is completely dead. Fuse is ok. What else should I check? I have the AM/FM cassette unit.

 

There are 2 fuses. One under the hood for memory. And 1 under the dash for ignition power.

Yes the pannel at knee level needs to come off. Then 2 screws behind that.

Then pull the pannel out and up and kinda have to bend around the steering wheel. Then 2 or 4 screws hold on the radio.

If the radio is dead, aftermarket units are cheep. Walmart $30-40.

 

And check the auction site. I bought a factory new NOS Dakota unit from a guy on there for a whopping $25.

 

Thanks, Is the 60 watt radio sufficient? I don't want sink to much into this project.

 

I would say 60 watt is not enough. I would have to hear what 60 can do.

I have a 200 watt. That is defiantly enough.

 

I got a nice JVC head unit at Wal-Mart for only $90. It is blue tooth ready, satellite ready, HD ready. I think it is 200w or maybe a little more. I have used sony, pioneer, and jenson, radios in the past, and the JVC out performs them hands down IMO. You can get a good radio and not pay a whole lot of money at wal-mart.

 

when you say 60wat is that per channel or total, the other thing to look at is the RMS per channel usually on the box for any audio stuff they have two ratings one is peak and the other is RMS. the difference is that RMS is basically what it can hold all the time with the peak number being what it will do ever once and a while. The important thing for good audio quality is to match up both the RMS for the head unit and the speakers. if you have a head unit thats capable of holding like 30rms and speakers that will only do 20rms dont expect them to last forever. Same for Amps and subwoofers

 

Anybody know what the original speaker rating?

The $40 radio at Walmart was a Dual 60 watt peak (most likely total).