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Old Jul 14, 2010 | 01:01 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by brucemc777
Thank-you! I was at first going to go with the Airtek and then got sidetracked with the two at NAPA - is it obvious as to whether it is a Walbro or a Carter module? If not, or if I have the Walbro and the Airtek is a sure thing (and cheaper), I will go that way.
On the top of your fuel pump assembly around the module will be a ring that says whether it is walbro or carter. it's on the top around the silver module.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2010 | 04:41 PM
  #12  
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What is that module? I found a pump on ebay (see prior post recently edited) for about $60 that does not picture the module as part of the assembly! Should I try to trust pulling it from one and attaching it to another, or is it an integral part that might itself be that which failed?

edit: I see that the module in question is the filter and regulator now - not something to gamble with! I sent the seller an email asking if the item does or does not have the module attached, as many times items are not exactly as pictured. If it doesn't I would really have to question the listing as it does represent this to be the "fuel module" as opposed to "pump"; module by manufacturer's definition appears to include regulator and filter...
 

Last edited by brucemc777; Jul 14, 2010 at 05:02 PM.
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Old Jul 14, 2010 | 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by brucemc777
What is that module? I found a pump on ebay (see prior post recently edited) for about $60 that does not picture the module as part of the assembly! Should I try to trust pulling it from one and attaching it to another, or is it an integral part that might itself be that which failed?

edit: I see that the module in question is the filter and regulator now - not something to gamble with! I sent the seller an email asking if the item does or does not have the module attached, as many times items are not exactly as pictured. If it doesn't I would really have to question the listing as it does represent this to be the "fuel module" as opposed to "pump"; module by manufacturer's definition appears to include regulator and filter...
That is exactly right. I snapped some photos to show you but it sounds like you kinda beat me to it. lol

None the less, here they are

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I would definitely say if it does not come with that part it probably isnt worth messing with. I know mine had all kinds of gunk and bad gas in it when i pulled it out. the stuff i got out of it was dark and gross.

You'll notice the photo with the 6 pin connector. Carter units have a 4 pin connector as does the airtek repacement. difference being the airtek replacement comes with a wiring harness to make the existing plug work.

Hope this helps, keep us updated on how things progress!
 
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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 01:12 PM
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Helps big-time. Now just to shuffle a few more pennies together and do this thing!
 
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Old Jul 20, 2010 | 09:35 PM
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OK folks, repair done, truck is running.

For those of you who might read this thread as an aid to doing this yourself for the first time in the future, I need to add just a little at this point:

1) Don't even think of proceeding without a pneumatic impact wrench. I was fortunate enough for my truck to have been sitting in the Harley-Davidson dealership parking lot where my wife works and had access to their's.

2) The ring that holds the pump to the tank is larger than most strap wrenches, but a blade screwdriver properly placed and smacked does the job just fine.

3) When removing the bolts from under the bed, expect to be showered with rust particles - WEAR safety glasses.

4) Now here is the one that I tripped over - If you go with the Airtex, it does say in the instructions to carefully remove the roll-over valve and gasket from the old assembly. Allow me to stress CAREFULLY. Use at least two blade screwdrivers, back and forth prying under where the supported plastic fins are on the top of the valve. Do NOT try to pull it off by one of those idiot fins with a pair of pliers, or you just might end up holding the nozzle in your pliers along with some plastic fragments from the top of the valve, and at least the folks at Autozone can't find this part at all, so like I, you might get to start calling scrapyards in a panic to find one. I got to buy an entire new used pump assembly for another $45 just to get that stupid valve. I was lucky - At least I found one...

5) In putting that valve and grommet into the new pump assembly, first WD40 or the like the valve assembly, nicely wrench the grommet off of it, push the grommet into the new pump assembly, and now another highly controlled use of force to shove the valve in through the grommet (during which I did break off a small inconsequential piece of plastic - but that served as a warning, big-time).

6) More like a side-note, figure two reasonably strong guys to lift the bed upp off and back onto the truck.

I think that about does it. I give my most sincere thanks to the folks who gave me guidance throughout this thread, and hope it helps some other poor soul in the future. If I think of anything else, I will add on, but for now I am still preoccupied swearing over that stupid, idiotic, jack@$$ed omission of the rollover valve by Airtex - what, that simple stupid little thing would have added all of maybe $2.00 to the cost and so they chose to have us reuse the old one??? What !&*&^ *&^^&* $%^&& $%$%^ ^^$%#$. There. Now I will go kick something.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2010 | 11:47 PM
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yea dude,

I agree that it sucks they didn;t include that part in the pump. I was lucky enough to not break mine. I also froze it and it fit in a lot easier.

I'm pretty sure they left that part out because these airtex pumps are a more or less "generic" replacement designed to work with multiple models.

Anyway, congrats on wrappin her up!
 
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 01:35 PM
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Excellent idea on the freezing! I will have to remember that.

Now to figure out if I want to tackle a head gasket on a 1994 Chevy K2500 pickup - our other vehicle...
 
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