You haven't said if you checked the distributor pickup in the coil. It houses the camshaft position sensor. Before you ask whats next, be sure to complete all the tests that were recommended so far!

But you should take a multimeter and check all the various sensors and connections. Test the MAP, TPS, CPS, ECT. The multimeter tests for all those sensors are given in detail in the factory service manual available for free download on the faq page.

Also, check that the coil is getting 12 volts.

 

Pull the distributor out and check the gear because it tends to wear out on the 3.9 liter. The updated part is much better and should fix your truck

 

PCM

 

PCM????? not sure what that means but anyway...I didn't check the distributor pick-up under the distributor because I was told if that was bad I wouldn't get any spark which I do, is this true???? And isnt the cpm differant from that?

Also I just bought a new iac valve and the truck started right up, idled for 5 minutes till I went to shut my hood when it died and wouldnt start again. It seams to want to start but its like its not getting enough fuel or something as it will pop and stutter but wont fully start. Im going to check the ASD relay with a volt meter to see if that is not working properly. I cant hook a computer up to it because I had the battery un-hooked and havent been able to drive it yet so no codes are coming on

thanks

 

You can still try to pull codes https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...-96-codes.html
Just because you haven't driven it yet, doesn't mean the codes won't show up. And, just because the Check Engine Light isn't on, doesn't mean there are no codes. (In case you didn't know.)

While, in theory, if the crankshaft and/or camshaft position sensors are bad, it shouldn't start up, in this imperfect world we live in, they could be intermittent. (Or, there could be a wiring fault, such as a loose wire or plug in the circuit)

If you press the gas pedal as you try to start it, will it start? Will it stay running if you keep your foot on the gas? (New parts can be bad, and again, the wiring in the circuit could be bad)

 

I have to believe it is a fuel problem but not sure what it is???? I had a buddy spray starting fluid into the TB and it started right up but would not idle spray it again and started right up but it is like it just isn't getting enough fuel...but the injectors, fuel pump must be working because once it is started and I hold my foot on the gas it runs strong, till I let off. I hear the fuel pump start when I turn the key. Pretty sure the gas pressure is weak but the pump is brand new and like I said once its started it runs fine.
Brand new iac valve but it wont idle.
Sometimes when I go out after a few hours it will start right up other times it wont...I just don't get it. I have to be missing something...could it be a bad computer? but wouldnt it not run even with starting fluid??? I am going crazy......

 

If you can keep it running with your foot on the pedal, I doubt your problems are anywhere BUT the IAC or its circuit.
Time to shoot wires...

 

any ideas how I should start? looked for the free factory service manual download on here but can't find it

 

The wiring diagram can be found on page 8W-30-18.
The pins on the PCM are pins A10 (yellow/black), A11 (brown/white), A19 (gray/red), and A20 (purple/black).
These wires, I think, should be in the front of the 3 connectors for the PCM (engine computer).
--Before disconnecting the electrical connectors to the PCM, make sure the key is out of the ignition for at least 10 seconds, than disconnect the battery. Failure to turn the key off before disconnecting electricity from the PCM can cause irreparable damage to the PCM*

Make sure the check for loose wires, loose connectors, corroded terminals, bent pins, etc.

 

ok so I went out and tried to start it today and it started right up, idled for 10 minutes then died. I restarted it and ran for about 3 minutes and died. Every attemp after would result in either not starting at all or starting with no idle.

I did however try the key cycle thing and got code 11. I dont think the timing chain skipped a tooth but it also say the cam or crank sensor intermittently arent working....yay

Now my problem is I have no idea where to find the crank sensor
anyone have a picture of the crank positioning sensor location?

also...is there any way to test these senors?

Thanks