I already took the bed off my 1991 dak club 5.2 2wd. I followed the wire from the gas gauge back all the way to the tank (its the blue & yellow one)



My question is, what have you guys done to get your gauge to work, mine sits below E and every now and then moves a tiny little bit up and back down, maybe a millimeter... If i need to remove the pump, how do i do that? does the big tan cirlce unscrew?

 

Yes, the big brown/tan outer plastic ring unscrews counterclockwise...use a wooden dowel and mallet on the ring ribs to loosen it. As far as getting your gauge to work, good luck man...I've done two fuel pumps on my 93 Dak and the gauge only works when it wants to. Mine registers past full when I fill up and will drop back to about 3/4 full mark after a week or so...then stay there until my odometer miles tell me to fill up. I tried to fix my gauge by giving it a better ground, but only managed to burn out the low-fuel light, so now I stop for gas when the trip odometer rolls around to 200+ miles...I reset it everytime I fill up. My old Dak gets about 14 mpg in town and 18-19 mpg down the highway at about 68 mph...with the tach at 1700 to 1800 rpm. Not great, but not bad considering the 318 V8 has more than 182K miles and the truck is 17 years old. Clean up the top of your tank before you change the pump...don't want crap falling down in the tank.

 

alright, i cant find it anywhere, but where do those wires lead? like the ground etc. I know the Blue/Yellow goes to the gauge cluster but what about the others? bou tto go check the FAQS but i have yet to find anything useful there

 

to fix your guage, all you probly would have to do is clean the contacts on the float. the only thing i'm unsure of is the low fuel light, since mine doesn't work and i can
t figure it out(changed the bulb and suck with no luck)

 

haha im not too worried about the low fuel light, checked the bulb earlier today and it worked, but ive never gotten it that low, to scared to run out of gas lol

 

cause my luck it would be on my way to work and thats a long *** drive with maybe 1 gas station. imma check the wires tomorrow and go from there.

 

alright, i stole this picture but where are the connectors? and will mine look like this? are the connectors where the wire meets the connector?

 

btw shadowthedakota, sick rims, you paint them? and if so, with what? i want to copy you

 

The problem is with the eletrical unit in the picture. clean it with some eletrical cleaner or try to find a replacement. My question would be once you clean it how to test it out of the tank, can't turn key to on with the unit out like that maybe turn to key to accy?

 

From the connector on top of the tank, your wires run back up to the engine on the drivers side frame rail and then into the wiring harness. I tried to clean the contacts on the fuel level reader on the pump the first time I pulled the pump to replace it. I cleaned all the contacts, hooked up the connector with the pump out of the tank, put the key on and could move the float arm up and down and the gauge needle would respond. Great! I thought, then put the pump back in the tank, hooked up the connector and the gauge went back to being funky and unreliable. It's simply a poor design I think. The recall/dealer fix was to add a ground to the fuel system...I read that and checked all the grounds (2) that I could find in the fuel pump/system wires and both were good. Due to the common electrical problems that people report with Daks, I think Mopar cheaped out when it came to wiring...I think it's a matter of cheap wires that don't age well and I ain't gonna start rewiring it piece by piece.
Hope your fuel pump experience is better. Maybe your gauge will come alive again after you change the pump.