Front brakes...
OK, you guys helped me do the fuel pump thing. I am fairly certain I have to do head gaskets, but for now the biggest problem are the front brakes - DEFINITELY grinding. Just this morning they squealed, my wife took the truck out for the afternoon, then I drove it and the grinding hurt me - like when the dentist uses that rough grinder on your teeth.
So how hard a time am I in for? I see Autozone has pads for under $20, and they seem to have a very good price on rotors - $30/rotor (I was thinking something over $100/rotor).
How hard a time will it be?
Is there a good guide to doing the job?
What tools should I have on hand?
THANK-YOU VERY MUCH!!!
So how hard a time am I in for? I see Autozone has pads for under $20, and they seem to have a very good price on rotors - $30/rotor (I was thinking something over $100/rotor).
How hard a time will it be?
Is there a good guide to doing the job?
What tools should I have on hand?
THANK-YOU VERY MUCH!!!
OK, found several good guides and compared to head gaskets, this all looks simple - easier than it was to do my Dad's '66 Chrysler station wagon way back when...
When is bleeding indicated?
When is bleeding indicated?
Last edited by brucemc777; Aug 17, 2010 at 10:46 AM.
The front is easy. If 2wd you will need to repack wheel bearings. 4wd is easy. Some have an Allen wrench caliper guide pins. Maybe 6mm. Some use a 10mm socket.
I will move this to the 1st Generation Dakota sub forum.
I will move this to the 1st Generation Dakota sub forum.
When you do the back take apart one side leaving the other side intact as a guide to reassamble the side you are working on. you will have to make a trip back to the auto store to get core refund. the fronts are esaier you will need a C clamp to re-set the capilar plunger. When doing this brake fluid will come out the top of the master cylinder so you might take a some out first.
Much appreciated-
Have not done brakes since auto shop in high school, When I was in high school, my Dad's '66 Chrysler station wagon was new. Might of been some dinosaurs walking the earth at the time also; just can't recall.
Before ripping into them, is there an easy way to spot if I have 9" or 10" shoe sets? edit: Scratch that last question - on the advice I found in this forum, I got a build sheet from Chrysler - pleasantly surprised to see it tells me I have 9" ( "9 x 2.5 HD Rear Drum Brakes" ) on it!
Have not done brakes since auto shop in high school, When I was in high school, my Dad's '66 Chrysler station wagon was new. Might of been some dinosaurs walking the earth at the time also; just can't recall.
Before ripping into them, is there an easy way to spot if I have 9" or 10" shoe sets? edit: Scratch that last question - on the advice I found in this forum, I got a build sheet from Chrysler - pleasantly surprised to see it tells me I have 9" ( "9 x 2.5 HD Rear Drum Brakes" ) on it!
Last edited by brucemc777; Aug 18, 2010 at 09:44 AM. Reason: As noted
also on the back make sure you turn adjusting screw so it is as short as it will get before puting it back together.
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When you do the fronts, to help avoid having to bleed the system, make sure you have a nice big set of water pump pliers or the caliper piston compression tool (some people call it a disc pad separator).The tool is only about $10 and well worth it. Less damage to the piston.
Where did you find the guides at?



