Do this: Put an ohmmeter on the two test leads to the coils primary terminals (+ and -). Most coils should read between 0.4 and 2 ohms. If you are getting a 0 then you have a shorted coil. Do this with the key in the off position. Your just checking the coil kind of like you would do a car battery.

 

I got .2 for a moment then .1 ohms.

 

I'd say step back from the ignition coil theory. The fact that it has resistance means it should be fine.

When you cycle the key, you should hear the fuel pump hum as it turns on. If you don't hear that, it's going to be a wire/splice/relay/PCM/ground somewhere that's preventing all of those components from firing up. If you haven't already, check out the wiring diagram at the back of the Haynes manual. That helped me out a lot.

When I took apart the wiring harness (just on the passenger side) I fixed about 4-5 splices. Take off your washer fluid reservoir and clear the wires out under there.

Are you cranking it much, and how's your battery doing?

 

This man here is correct your coil is fine and we have checked your entire ignition system so it all checks out or you have already replace before you brought this up in the form. He is giving good advice it could be anyone of those things listed above now. But here is something I found in one of my SRT-4 books. I thought I would put it in here since you said your check engine light didnt come on.

The "check engine" light does not come on - When you turn the ignition on before starting the car, the "check engine" light is supposed to come on indicating that the engine computer (PCM) is powered on. If the "check engine" light does not come with the ignition on, it's possible that there is no power coming to the engine computer (e.g, due to a broken wire, faulty relay, burnt fuse, etc.) or that there is a problem with the engine computer itself.

 

This is what I am inclined to think as well. Since we already checked the wiring harness for correct power and ground, I was thinking the PCM. Thats why I spent the 300 bucks for a new one. Shipping says I will have it tomorrow so I will throw the NEW NEW computer and see what happens.

Battery is doing fine for now. I have been disconnecting it while not troubleshooting. It reads 12.5 volts at the moment.

 

12.5 should be fine. I got down to 12.4 when I finally resolved my issue.

 

Ok, Update. NEW NEW computer didnt fix the problem. I am going to recheck everything and see where I went wrong at. Obviously I looked at something that wasnt right and didnt realize it. Going to start again by rechecking the power and grounds at the wiring harness. Looks like pins 6 and 7 are power and 11 and 12 are ground. What pins supply 12V power?

 

did you change the crank shaft senser mine had wear on the bottom when i took it out replaced it and i replaced the pick up under the distributer cap

 

No I didnt. But I dont think that the CPS would affect me not getting a check engine light when I turn the key on - off three times.

 

OK. Just checked the wiring harness again. The ignition switch out #9 wire is giving 12 volts. And grounds 11 and 12 are grounding at 12 volts as well. Still cranking but no start.

Would a bad CPS cause this kind of issue?