Hello all. I am new to this forum. I am the proud owner of a 1995 Dodge Dakota SLT Club Cab 3.9L V6 MPI. I am having A/C trouble. I had taken it to a shop for a free A/C check and was told it was empty of refrigerant. They pulled a vacuum and it held for 10 minutes so I had them charge it. There were no apparent leaks at that time. Within a couple months it wasn't blowing cool anymore. Winter was approaching so I didn't worry about it. A couple months ago I took it back to the same shop which was under new ownership with new technicians. This time they told me the system was still full of refrigerant but I had a blocked expansion valve that wasn't letting the refrigerant cycle. My compressor just kicks on and off continuously. They said it would run around $1000 to repair because it would require disassembling the inside of the truck to get to the components under the dash. Since then I have been getting conflicting information from the web as to whether or not I really have an expansion valve or if I have an orifice tube. Most sources all agree though that either one would be found under the hood, either at the firewall or near the condenser. I am hoping someone on this forum has the expertise or knowledge to confirm which item my truck has, orifice tube or expansion valve, where it would be located, and ease of replacing. I am fairly mechanically inclined and think I could do it myself, aside from the evacuating and vacuum pulling part. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

Hi,

I know very little but try to help where i can. This is what Chilton online has to say:

Orifice tube removal:
So it SOUNDS like you wouldn't have the expansion valve? Not sure just based from that reading.

Hope this helps in some fashion

 

Except his is a 95, doesn't fit in the 89-93 category.

 

You are on the right track. Do not cough up that money to that shop ! ! From my experience with dodge models they carry an expansion valve under the hood around the firewall. The only reason why you would need to disassemble the dashboard would be to get to the evaporator, blower motor, or any electrical issues with the controls. Evidently you do not have to do this if your system is full, indicating that there is no leak. Good luck and let me know what you find to be the problem.

 

Thanks for the help all. My truck has an orifice tube that is located in the lower tube on the condensor. Removing it almost proved a hassle. It was just a hair to far to try and grab with needle nose and I think I actually pushed it in a little. I ended up using my air compressor to blow it out. The fact that that worked I guess would be an indication that it was slightly blocked. It did look dirty. I replace the orifice tube, accumulator and all the seals. I had to buy a special tool set to disconnect the hoses. They have spring lock connections that I was not aware of and had no previous experience with. Luckily it was only about 6 bucks at Harbor Freight for the set. The tools are plastic. I could have spent more for metal ones but the plastic worked fine. I pulled a vacuum using the Venturi-style vacuum pump, also from Harbor Freight for about $15. It hooks to the air compressor. I did buy a set of A/C manifold gauges and hoses from HF for about $35. After I pulled the vacuum, I filled with straight freon, two 12 ounce cans, and have had cold air ever since. Hopefully there isn't a small leak in the evaporator or condensor that wasn't detected because then it would get expensive. Also, my system was not full like the shop told me. I "evacuated" from both the low and high side ports and there was minimal pressure release. It was definitely empty before I started working on it.

Thanks again.

 

Got to consider compressor oil loss when ever the ac system is opened and for how long and where at, determines how much pag oil to add.

 

Holy six years ago Batman!