Out of all the spots on the brake line....
this one had to rust a hole.
I just got done putting a new alternator in and while backing out, I felt a pop in the brakes.
(its up under the bed right next to the frame)
my question is, does it have to loop or could I flare a new, straight piece?
I just got done putting a new alternator in and while backing out, I felt a pop in the brakes.
(its up under the bed right next to the frame)
my question is, does it have to loop or could I flare a new, straight piece?
from my readings on the forum it sounds like brake lines have their shape for a reason. It has to do with building the proper pressure. so i guess it seems like the coil needs to be there. I havn't tried anything like this personally, I have yet to have the fun (misfortune?) of playing with brake lines.
yeah, i think im gonna have to have my dad help me out on this one. Ill end up Fing it up lol. I asked him and he said something about maybe helping keep it cool or it was easier to loop instead of doing tiny bends. But I have faith in him, about 3 weeks ago he put all new brake lines my bros '88 buick centry custom. All the bending and etc. So, see how it work but for now I have to drive my fiances blazer
well, this sucks. snapped the bleeder valves bolt things off both sides. and cant really get an e-z out in there. any ideas? If i take the entire drum off, ill have to redo the brake lines. etc. Is there any way to bleed the back brakes without those? Did it on the box next to the loop and that didnt work good enough....and the front brakes dont really stop well w/o the rear
You can bleed them by cracking the lines at the wheel cylinders, won't be perfect but better than nothing. Chances are though if the bleeders broke the lines won't come off either. At least the wheel cylinders are cheap and fairly easy.






