1994 SLT heater core replacement....I need so advice please
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1994 SLT heater core replacement....I need so advice please
so my Chilton is marginal at best with discriptive info.....it is not Dakota specific, it gives very limited info about what to do. Every thing I see says pull the dash assembly, I have the box system loose (4 fire wall bolts) can I seperate the a/c side of the box or is this some thing that must be done from the top once the dash is out of the way...?? Please help if any of you have a minute.....I'm racking my brain
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I just pulled my heater box yesterday. I have a '95 so it should be pretty much the same.
The heater core and evaporator core are accessable only from the top and the two can't be seperated so yes, you need to pull the entire heater box assembly. Remove the seat to make it a whole bunch easier! The lower dash panels have to be removed from the steering column over. There are control connections and the wiring harness that are attached above and behind the box assembly that need to be disconnected. Of course, the heater hoses and A/C lines need to be removed also. If you've never disconnected A/C lines, don't worry. Pay no attention to the horror stories, they're not that difficult. Remember to depressurize and recover the R134a. I think my evap core is shot so most of the refrigerant already leaked out over the years thereby negating the need to recover it!
Here's a write-up I did on disconnecting fuel lines. These are the same garter spring clips that are used on the Dakota A/C lines. IIRC the top line uses the 7/8" tool and the bottom line uses the 5/8" tool.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/530871...rosa-ca-us?p=2
After everything is disconnected and unbolted, pull the box assembly towards you and rotate it so the bottom comes up and the top goes down. Put a rubber mat, or something on the trans tunnel to catch any coolant that's leftover in the heater core so it doesn't soak into your carpet. Slide the assembly out and put it on the bench. The top case cover is held on by a bunch of 5/16" screws. Remove it and you'll see the heater and evap cores. To replace the cores you can spend a fortune at the stealership or go to Rockauto.com for good prices. When you order, type this number
37355593075061 into the 'how did you hear about us' box and receive a 5% discount on their already cheap prices. Hope this helps.
The heater core and evaporator core are accessable only from the top and the two can't be seperated so yes, you need to pull the entire heater box assembly. Remove the seat to make it a whole bunch easier! The lower dash panels have to be removed from the steering column over. There are control connections and the wiring harness that are attached above and behind the box assembly that need to be disconnected. Of course, the heater hoses and A/C lines need to be removed also. If you've never disconnected A/C lines, don't worry. Pay no attention to the horror stories, they're not that difficult. Remember to depressurize and recover the R134a. I think my evap core is shot so most of the refrigerant already leaked out over the years thereby negating the need to recover it!
Here's a write-up I did on disconnecting fuel lines. These are the same garter spring clips that are used on the Dakota A/C lines. IIRC the top line uses the 7/8" tool and the bottom line uses the 5/8" tool.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/530871...rosa-ca-us?p=2
After everything is disconnected and unbolted, pull the box assembly towards you and rotate it so the bottom comes up and the top goes down. Put a rubber mat, or something on the trans tunnel to catch any coolant that's leftover in the heater core so it doesn't soak into your carpet. Slide the assembly out and put it on the bench. The top case cover is held on by a bunch of 5/16" screws. Remove it and you'll see the heater and evap cores. To replace the cores you can spend a fortune at the stealership or go to Rockauto.com for good prices. When you order, type this number
37355593075061 into the 'how did you hear about us' box and receive a 5% discount on their already cheap prices. Hope this helps.
Last edited by evintho; Sep 9, 2010 at 12:59 PM.
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From: NorCal
I just pulled my heater box yesterday. I have a '95 so it should be pretty much the same.
The heater core and evaporator core are accessable only from the top and the two can't be seperated so yes, you need to pull the entire heater box assembly. Remove the seat to make it a whole bunch easier! The lower dash panels have to be removed from the steering column over. There are control connections and the wiring harness that are attached above and behind the box assembly that need to be disconnected. Of course, the heater hoses and A/C lines need to be removed also. If you've never disconnected A/C lines, don't worry. Pay no attention to the horror stories, they're not that difficult. Remember to depressurize and recover the R134a. I think my evap core is shot so most of the refrigerant already leaked out over the years thereby negating the need to recover it!
Here's a write-up I did on disconnecting fuel lines. These are the same garter spring clips that are used on the Dakota A/C lines. IIRC the top line uses the 7/8" tool and the bottom line uses the 5/8" tool.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/530871...rosa-ca-us?p=2
After everything is disconnected and unbolted, pull the box assembly towards you and rotate it so the bottom comes up and the top goes down. Put a rubber mat, or something on the trans tunnel to catch any coolant that's leftover in the heater core so it doesn't soak into your carpet. Slide the assembly out and put it on the bench. The top case cover is held on by a bunch of 5/16" screws. Remove it and you'll see the heater and evap cores. To replace the cores you can spend a fortune at the stealership or go to Rockauto.com for good prices. When you order, type this number
37355593075061 into the 'how did you hear about us' box and receive a 5% discount on their already cheap prices. Hope this helps.
The heater core and evaporator core are accessable only from the top and the two can't be seperated so yes, you need to pull the entire heater box assembly. Remove the seat to make it a whole bunch easier! The lower dash panels have to be removed from the steering column over. There are control connections and the wiring harness that are attached above and behind the box assembly that need to be disconnected. Of course, the heater hoses and A/C lines need to be removed also. If you've never disconnected A/C lines, don't worry. Pay no attention to the horror stories, they're not that difficult. Remember to depressurize and recover the R134a. I think my evap core is shot so most of the refrigerant already leaked out over the years thereby negating the need to recover it!
Here's a write-up I did on disconnecting fuel lines. These are the same garter spring clips that are used on the Dakota A/C lines. IIRC the top line uses the 7/8" tool and the bottom line uses the 5/8" tool.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/530871...rosa-ca-us?p=2
After everything is disconnected and unbolted, pull the box assembly towards you and rotate it so the bottom comes up and the top goes down. Put a rubber mat, or something on the trans tunnel to catch any coolant that's leftover in the heater core so it doesn't soak into your carpet. Slide the assembly out and put it on the bench. The top case cover is held on by a bunch of 5/16" screws. Remove it and you'll see the heater and evap cores. To replace the cores you can spend a fortune at the stealership or go to Rockauto.com for good prices. When you order, type this number
37355593075061 into the 'how did you hear about us' box and receive a 5% discount on their already cheap prices. Hope this helps.
almost done with my exploritory opperation, only to come in and see this....lol.....ya I have the dash tilted forward,colum down,wired unplugged and I think all of the tiny screws out now for the retainer clip on the plastic post in the center of the box lid......gonna chop core tubes outside of truck (fire wall side) not to worried about the mess right now carpet needs to be cleaned away it's a work truck. I have a core for many moons now I just have been avioding this mess for now very confermed obvious reasons.....thx a bunch for the advice I truely appreciate it a lot.....
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From: Chicago, IL
I did mine recently also. If I had to do it again I would blow out the heater core to save on the mess of coolant that gets spilled in the cab.
Sounds like you are on the right track.
Sounds like you are on the right track.
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so I checked that site you refered me to.....here is the kicker.....the original core is 9"x6"x2"....the one everyone is selling is acually a 6"x6"x2", it seems they don't make heater cores for 1st Gen anymore they are all 2nd Gen so beware guys that the length is part of the door structure inside the box......the missing 3" has to be filled with foam.....so now I gotta have a used one pulled (my tubes are split so can't rebiuld it) and if that core is good off to radiator shop for a rebuild it goes.......it'll be close to 150.00 in all but I have no desire to go thru this nightmarish process in the next couple of years.....lol
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NAPA sells new ones for the truck. Just open the box and compare the sizes before you take it home, had one that was mislabeled, but once they reordered it was rright.
Now that I think about it autozone sells them too. You should be able to go to any auto parts store and get one. I just did it about 6 weeks ago, went through NAPA.
Now that I think about it autozone sells them too. You should be able to go to any auto parts store and get one. I just did it about 6 weeks ago, went through NAPA.
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http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...+50022+2022006
This is definately the part I put into my truck, and it was only around $40. There is going to be thick foam you put around the edges to seal properly.
This is definately the part I put into my truck, and it was only around $40. There is going to be thick foam you put around the edges to seal properly.