This is my first post and first question. I have been a fan of DF.com for some time now and have been to this site many times for info on certain things about my Dak. My question is: I have read in the past when that you could use the FAQ section to view Dakota shop manuals. Is that still possible? I am haveing starting problems with my Dak and I am looking for directions for checking the fuel pressure and fuel regulator. It's the 318 mag MPFI. Any help will really be great

Thanks

 

Welcome to DF.
Yes we have the factory service manual in the FAQ on the 1st Generation Dakota section. You can download it.

The typical problem for no start will be the notorious splices. They are several power splices under the relay box under the hood. These power the fuel pump ASD and the computer. Check the FAQ for more info and pictures of locations.

 

I'll move this to the tech section.

As Crazy said, the power splices are a common problem. But can you be more specific about your problem? Is the engine turning over? Can you hear the fuel pump turn on when you turn the key to on?

As for the service manuals, they can't be viewed in the faq page, but the faq page contains the links to download them and then you need to unzip the files and open them with adobe reader. Here are the list of links from faq...

 

Thanks for all the links 95_318slt

Here's the deal with the way my truck starts: first off let me say that it has always been a fast starter. I mean like less than 1 or 2 seconds in the crank position on the key. Now within the last 3 months, on starts after sitting more than lets say 15 minutes or more you have to crank for 3to5 seconds crank again for 3to5 seconds and if lucky on the third time it will start as soon as you turn the key. ( this is crank and turn it all the way off), now lets say in the morning or at work after 8 hours you can hold the key cranking for about 6 or 7 seconds turn it all the way off then as soon as you hit the crank position again it will start immedeitly. I have tried turning the key to on position then off again then on again then off again, to no avail that does not work. It has to be cranking over for it to do any good. I thought that I could trick it into giving a squirt of gas but that did not work. It had a new OEM fuel pump put in her last year. This is the first MPFI I have owned. I read the thread about the splices this morning. That might be a clue. I was thinking it was a fuel problem. Maybe fuel pressure bleeding down at the regulator or one of the injectors dripping down (that would be bad for my oil). If you look at my garage pics you will see that the engine and compartment is SWEET CLEAN for a 93 and almost 210,000 miles on it. But you know how it stays like that right? Car wash pressure spray every 2 or 3 months. Hmm I'm thinking maybe corroded splices? She's never once failed me at the motor wash either, starts every time and runs like a top. Boy this is long winded LOL ! Oh ya I pulled the plugs last weekend (champion truck plugs) and they were picture perfect after about 40,000 miles. Re-gapped them and put them back in. Any input sure would help. If you need more info I promise it will be shorter

Thanks again guys

 

sorry to get off topic, if i may ask, when you wash the engine do you take the belt off and cover up the electrical?

 

Hello Shadow

I don't take off the belt and try not to really soak anything electrical or electronic. The rest is elbow grease and engine fondleing

 

The downloadable service manuals are a great asset even though it is for 95 and later Daks. I have to go back and forth between an iffy Haynes manual and the digital service manual I got on this site when I have problems with my 93 Dak L3 with 318-V8 4WD. As for washing your engine, I'd rather have a slightly grimy engine and never get it wet with a power washer...water and electrical components don't mix and these trucks have enough electrical problems as is. Just my .02 cents worth...no disrespect intended.

 

I pressure washed my 90 and took me 3 days to figure out some water got in the distributaor cap had to get a new one. you problem sounds like one i had with my 90 was the hall effect "gismo" in the distribuator, don't know if you engine has one.

 

No disrespect taken tmacdakota, like I said above I recommend really shying away from electronics under the hood. I have been lucky so far I guess. As you can see in the pic I think I have acually been to **** about it. I have washed some of the paint out from under the hood ! LOL As for the hall effect thingy I have the multi port injected 318 Magnum and I think the hall effect is only on the throttle body injection. I have a signal generator switch ( what ever in the hell that is). but thanks for the heads up. I am going to put some 8.5ml mopar high performance wires and an Excell 43000v coil with new cap and rotor in a couple of weeks so I am going to look deeper into my dist now to check that thing. Go figure, it's a 93, things dont last forever. Maybe the generator switch is wore out. Is there any way of testing something like that? I am open to all thoughts on this starting problem. I just want it to start like it did. With the 3" cat back single and the through-flow or sure- flow muffler it sounds like thunder as soon as you hit the key (it will set off alarms at the store parking lots HeHe), now it's kinda embarracing to keep cranking it in the parking lots until she fires. I wanted to test something yesterday about my fuel theory so I dumped a little gas straight down her thoat and then went to start. Well it's a little better but it just started up rather rough until it cleared out. I just dont understand what this is and I dont want to get stuck for a grand at the Dodge dealer. Know what I mean? KEEP'UM COMMING GUYS.

Thanks again