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ABS & Parking Brake Lights On After Wheel Cylinder Blowout

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Old Nov 1, 2010 | 10:31 PM
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Question ABS & Parking Brake Lights On After Wheel Cylinder Blowout

My truck's brake pedal got stepped on while I had one of my drums and shoes off, which resulted in the piston and seal being ejected from one side of the wheel cylinder. I put it back together and then opened the bleeder valve while someone pushed the pedal until the air was clear and fluid started to come out, but I didn't do a thorough bleed yet. Tonight when I was testing something else I noticed that the ABS and Parking brake warning lights were on. Is this something that should go away once I have properly bled the system, or will I need to get a scanner in order to reset them? What about that wheel cylinder? Should I replace it?
 
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Old Nov 1, 2010 | 10:50 PM
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There is a sensor on the proportioning valve. It senses a difference in pressure in between the front and rear brakes then sets off the light. I should go back off when the pressure is equal after a full brake bleed all 4 wheels. Mine got stuck and didn't rest. I had to replace the sensor.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2010 | 11:10 AM
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That's good to know. I'm hoping it'll just turn off after the bleed.

The reason the drum was off in the first place was because the rear brakes didn't seem to be doing anything unless I pressed really hard on the pedal. I'm going to see if this is still the case once I put it back together and bleed. The shoes were worn, but didn't need to be replaced yet, so I'm not sure what was going on there.

I'm glad this isn't my daily driver. I can work on it as time allows rather than being in a huge rush to just get it fixed now.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 01:16 PM
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Had the light thingie on one of my vans after replacing total left front brake components. Did a vacum bleed and thought all was well and a week later poof lights. At that point I read, yep when all else fails I read. Seems Mr. Van has to have all brakes bled anytime there is brake work starting at right rear then left rear then right front then left front then reset. Technology is amaizin aint it!
 
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 10:35 AM
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Thanks for the replies.

I used a big syringe to suck all the fluid out of the reservoir then replaced it with fresh DOT 3. The old stuff was a lovely opaque greenish-black color. I bled all the wheels until the fresh fluid started to come out, topped off the reservoir, and now the lights are off.

I had to back off the adjusters in the drum brakes all the way in order to get the drums off and back on. Should I adjust these by hand or will they auto-adjust with some driving?

When checking the brakes, I noticed that the rear ones do not engage until the pedal has traveled most of the way down and reached the point where it is really firm. Is this normal? I think the front gradually engage even when the pedal is still in the squishy part of it's travel.

Does this make sense?
 
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Old Nov 6, 2010 | 04:08 AM
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if you left the rear brakes as loose as they were to get the drums off , they may not self adjust. I always take a small screwdriver push the self adjuster out of the way use the brake spoon to tighten the brake till drum is snug and let the self adjusters go from that point. I also inspect the cogged wheek on the self adjuster for sighs of wear because a worn cogg wheel will not self adjust properly.
 
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