Thanks, that's what I'm hoping too. Should I clean/flush the valve body when I pull it or just reinstall as-is?

 

I’d change the filter, install the new solenoids and put it back on. I wouldn’t dismantle the V\B and clean it unless the pan had a bunch of material in it. Remember the TCC solenoid may not be your culprit. It could be a wiring or computer issue as well. Did you try unplugging the case connecter, starting the truck and putting it in gear to see if the converter clutch is released when there is no power going to the TCC? I don’t really understand the intricacies of the TCC circuit except that the computer commands lockup and releases it under certain speed and load conditions including releasing it whenever you apply the brakes.

Good luck and let us know what happens.

 

Haven't had a chance to crawl under there to drop the VB because of the crappy weather on the weekends the last couple of weeks but looks like the weather may be good enough to get this done this weekend in between playing Santa. Are there only 2 bolts holding the VB on or more? I looked in my manual and it didn't really show where they were at and when you actually look at it under the truck, there's a bunch of bolts on the VB. I'm sure some hold it to the case and some hold the VB together. Someone have a dwg or sketch that's a little clearer than the manual? Also, to remove the VB, the manual says I need to remove linkage, etc. Is that true or can I just drop the VB enough to get to the bolt holding the plug in the case? This is my first time in an AT and I can see why most people don't mess with them.
BTW, the pan was clean w/o any debris but the fluid almost had a motor oil viscosity to it and was very dark and had a slight burnt smell to it.

 

The bolts in the middle of the valve body do hold the valve body together. It’s the bolts at each end of the valve body assembly that hold it to the case and I think there are more then 2 at each end. I’ve got a few A500's in the back of my warehouse and I’ll drop the pan on one and pull the Valve body off tomorrow. I’ll post up what the steps are if you think that will help.

I really hope that converter is going to be OK for you once you get this lockup issue figured out.

 

Just finished taking it off. Make sure you apply the parking brake and block the wheels. Here’s the step by step.

1) Pop the kick down cable off the linkage it attaches to.
2) Remove the cotter pin that attaches the shift linkage to a short linkage at the valve body. You could try and pop the linkage out of the grommet that holds it on the linkage that’s attached to the portion of the valve body that sticks out of the case but you risk damaging the grommet.
3) There are two linkage assembly’s attached to the valve body linkage post that sticks through the case. They are attached with a battery type clamp. Loosen the bolts and pop the top one off and then the second. They are just clamped on.
4) Disconnect the case connector. The external linkage is now all removed.
5) Drop the drive shaft.
6) Remove the three bolts at both the front and rear of the valve body. They are of two different sizes and need to go back in the correct hole.
7) Remove the 4 bolts that hold the accumulator cover (the part of the valve body that juts to the passenger side of the case). These are all the same size.
8) The valve body will be loose. The trans I worked on needed to have the case connector tapped on due to a tight fit between the orings on the case connector and the case. I tapped on the connector and the valve body came loose. You may want to hold one hand on the valve body and tap the connector with the other.
9) The valve body has a parking rod attached to it that runs all the way into the overdrive section and it will stop the valve body from dropping. The parking rod is about 2 ft long and slides in and out of ring gear lugs in the overdrive section. The valve body may just slide out or you may need to turn the output shaft a little bit to relieve pressure on it so it can slide out.

Reverse procedures to install. Make sure when you slide the parking rod back into the overdrive section that it drops into the lugs on the ring gear. You may have to move the output shaft a little to let it slide in to the right spot. This can be a little tricky but this rod needs to be in right spot.

Good luck.

 

Well, I changed the TCC, fluid and filter last Sunday and there is no change. As soon as I put it in gear it clunks, lunges and kills the motor. Looks like I need a new tranny unless someone out there has any other ideas. One thing I just realized is I haven't rechecked the codes to see if 37 dropped off. I doubt if that will mean anything but that was the only code I had before when all of this started.
Happy New Year!!!!!!.....

 

Have you tried disconnecting the case connector at the transmission, starting the truck and putting it in gear to see if it still lunges and stalls. With the case connector disconnected the TCC solenoid won't be energized electrically. If the truck doesn't lunge and stall you are dealing with an electical problem and not a transmission problem.

Good luck

 

I'll give it a try later and let you know. If it does work, do you have any idea what the electrical problem would be??

 

OK, pulled the case connector and no change. Still clunks and dies immediately. Still think it might be electrical because the battery has been dead each time I tried starting it but when I jump it it fires right up. I've put a trickle charger on it but it won't hold the charge overnight. I'll check to see if there are any other codes popping up, the only one I had before was 37. I wouldn't think the neutral safety switch would be the problem, would it. It will still start in park or neutral. This is getting real frustrating!!

 

Checked the codes yesterday and 37 is gone. All I have now is the start and stop codes (12 and 55). You guys have all been a big help on this site but I'm at a point where I'm about ready to just get rid of it and find another "beater" truck to get me around. Any one have any other ideas?