My '92 with V6 and AT has just developed a problem I've never seen before. I recently got a jump from someone in a Volvo that I later found out had some electrical issues and after replacing a couple of fuses and breakers I thought everything was fine. When I got ready to leave this morning the truck started up fine but when I put the tranny in Drive the motor immediately died. One of the problems I had right after the truck got jumped was that the tranny would shutter upon first strating off in gear but once the fuses and breakers were replaced the problem went away. Now I have this problem. I'm thinking that the problems are somehow related and probably electrical in nature rather than mechanical. Anyone have any ideas?????

 

Who knows what it is. From the sound of it, it seems like the jumper cables were hooked up wrong. By hooking it up you made it put 24 volts, which would and did fry everything. So yes I say it is an electrical problem. Also it doesn't sound like it is anything to do with the transmission. It may be something to do with the engine. If you press on the gas right before it dies, does it keep it from dieing? If so you may have a bad IAC, Idle Air Control valve. Just replace it. Do you have any check engine light codes?

 

When you put the truck in gear, it lunges forward and immediately dies. The only way to get it to move is rev it up some before dropping it in gear (which is what my wife did to get it to move yesterday, which I told her not to do again) and when you try to stop once it's moving, the truck doesn't want to stop. It just keeps trying to move forward. The only code coming up is 37,Torque converter clutch solenoid CKT or park/neutral switch failure which sounds like it might have something to do with what's going on here, right?

 

like crazy said, when you jumped your truck, you probably had the cables on backwards and you more than likely fried the torque converter clutch lock-up solenoid. You probably also messed up the wiring for the neutral safety switch thus the computer doesn't know if the transmission is if park or not. You might be lucky with a bad neutral safety switch, if not, you might end up having to do some big time electrical diagnostic work. A bad TCC solenoid wouldn't affect the the truck from starting, it only comes into play when you're at highway speeds and the converter locks.

 

Will this truck have the 42 or 46 tranny? I have a factory service manual for a '96 and it shows both types.

 

The 92 V6's came with the 42RH. V8's were the 46RH. It is listed in the FAQ in this section. The 96 is slightly different, it is a 42RE. It is not the same so the 96 book will not work for you. The E is for Electronic controlled. The H is Hydraulically controlled.

We have a 42RH rebuild manual as well as the factory service manual for 95 with has a 42RH.

 

Torque converter clutch apply and the ¾ shift are electrically controlled in your truck. Both of these solenoids are attached to the valve body. They are replaced as an assembly and run around 30.00. It is possible the TCC solenoid fried and is applying the converter clutch (lockup) at all times. This would kill the engine when you place it in drive since there would be no slippage in the converter.

The fact that you have a TCC code would also point to the solenoid, wiring or computer.

Good Luck

 

Obviously, I'm getting some conflicting info from CT and Crazy on this. I checked a few things last night and found that there is no electronic tranny relay in the PDM so that covers Crazy's statement. I also pulled the pan and my fluid is black but not burnt (it was perfectly fine a couple of days ago). I'm thinking I will flush the cooler lines & tranny, replace the TCC, change the fluid and filter and see what happens. It's cheaper than rebuilding the whole thing if I don't have to.

 

OK, I have unbolted the module from the valve body and I see the wiring goes up into the housing to the plug. Based on the pics in the manual, it looks like the plug connects somewhere on the upper part of the tranny and is held in place with a screw or bolt. Do I need to get to that from the inside or outside of the housing and if so do I need to hire someone with really skinny forearms to get to it? What kind of screw/bolt is it? Can anyone help me out here?

Thanks!

 

You will have to drop the valve body to remove the bolt that holds the case connector to the upper valve body. The only bolts you have to remove to get the valve body off are the ones at each end. They are the ones that attach the V\B to the case.

It sounds like your converter clutch was slipping due to being in lockup when it shouldn’t be – it would explain the quick change in color of the transmission fluid. Hopefully the converter wasn’t hurt.