i have a 1988 dodge dakota with the 2.5 and a manual trans. i recently have been having more and more problems with that gutless little 4banger. i have found a 74 360 V8 with matching auto transmission with 40000 orig miles to drop in it, but i have never done anything more in depth than a valve cover gasket. im really looking forward to this project, i had some questions tho... how much new wiring needs to be done for the v8.and will i need a heavier duty rear end? dont wanna blow my current one into a million little pieces. i will get pics on here in the next day or so, any and all advice is welcome, i can use all the help i can get :-)

 

The 74 will require a lot less then modern engine swaps. Just depends all of what is on it like electronic choke, ignition setup, starter, AC, ect.

As for the rear end it depends on what axle you got. 2 different ones Chry 8.25 with an oval rear cover and Chry 7.25 with a octagon shaped cover.

 

The 74 chrysler ignition is a 4 wire box (typically, but may have the 5 wire which as stock requires a dual ballast resistor). Moparts has numerous ignition schematics to aid in the wiring department (I think there are maybe 12 wires total), but instruments will require some finess and patience. I will be rewiring mine soon, so PM me in 2 weeks or so to see how it went.. Since you may not have the truck mounts drilled in the block (3 holes, triangular arrangment each side), you may need to get the ear mounts from either fabbing or purchase premade ones. The rear is an easy swap as there are many available dakota axles in JY or salvage areas. You will want the 8 1/4 minimum if your ever going to dog it. Preferably 9 1/4 if you get serious with your 3 speed (727?). If the engine your buying is still in the vehicle, you will want everything that you can get, electronics, mounts etc. If for nothing else, to use for mocking.

All in all, I would recommend getting the GM HEI setup for under a clam, and install it to your setup. Again, there are numerous "mopar GM ignition install" instructions online. You can also update your tranny pan to a 518 pan for extra cooling. The standard radiator (top bolt style) will not allow the water pump to clear, and you will need to procure the HD version (side tab mount). An electric fan is mandatory as well, unless you offset the engine to allow for a clutch fan or puller fan (preferred), but then you will have to cut your driveshaft. I think the 727 is 1/2" shorter than the A518, but you'll have to research that elsewhere. If you do the 727, you may be in luck to go to the yard and pull one with the axle that you are probably swapping.

 

I'm not sure but you may have to beef up your front suspension to handle the extra weight from the V8 engine and automatic transmission. Also the steering components may be a bit light for the extra power and weight. And will the frame need to be boxed to handle the power without twisting? Check into these things before you start so you wont end up with a powerful machine you have to modify even more before you can drive it. This is a great deal of work to go through and not be able to "use" the power to it's full potential.