So I think the front seal is worn out, it's leaking near the front. Question is, how hard is it to replace it yourself, I by no means am a mechanic but I get by pretty well. Any special tools or equipment needed for this job?> THANKS

 

its not too bad of a job,but i will give you a few tips.a good jack,and a buddy to help ,when lowering and re installing the tranny.first thing,take the distributor cap loose,u can leave the wires on,just take it loose,and lay it on the top of the engine,keeps from the possibility of cracking the cap,when the back of the engine drops.put it on jack stands front and back,easier with the vehicle level. drain the fluid loosen the pan bolts across the back,about two turns,then start at the front,completely removing the bolts,w a drain pan under there,this helps not to make such a big mess,after the fluid is drained,replace the bolts. now,im sure u know u have to take the torque converter out,to replace the seal.easy,just pull it straight out.take a flat head screw driver,and a hammer,to pop the seal out.while the seal is out,look in the whole,u will see like two ears,with the transmission sitting on the belly/pan,u want these ears at the top and bottom,u can use a screw dirver to move them,re install the seal,simple,but tricky,sometimes can be a pain,to get it to stay in place,when you lay it in there,push one side donn with ur thumb,holding pressure on it.then with ahammer,start tapping around the seal.make sure,the seal is completely flat against the pump case.now re installing the converter,there will be two notches in the neck of the converter,those go around the two ears,so when starting the converter back in,have the notches top and bottom.it will kinda stop shortly after.most likely not all the way in though,there will be a ear,in the center of the converter,grab it and jiggle,u should start feeling the converter going further in.if still doesnt feel like it is going in that way,grab that ear,spin the converter,while jiggling it.hard to explain how it feels,when it is going,but you will know.now here is the main thing,the ears,where the bolts go through the flywheel,make sure,they are down inside the bell housing,if the converter isnt in all the way,you will have to pull the transmission again.after all that,and you get all bell housing bolts back in,time to bolt the converter back up.the very first bolt,tighten all the way down,then loosen it,to only finger tight,go to the next bolt,just run it and the third bolt in finger tight,the forth bolt,tighten all the way,now you must tighten the other three bolts all the way the reason for the,sometimes the holes in the flywheel,are not completelt round,and if you tighten them all the way down,at first,when u get to the last bolt,the holes could be out of alignment enough you wont be able to get it started, been there,no fun.you can use each bolt,to turn the converter to get to the next bolt.make sure,you get all four tight.then put everything else back together.a couple tools,that will help,if can get them,a 9/16" swivel socket,and an extension about 3 foot long,makes easier to get to the top bell housing bolts.not sure on the dakotas,might be able to get to the top bolts,from the under the hood.i would check.hope this helps.ill try and remeber to check on this thread,incase u have any questions along the way.

 

is it in fact tranny oil? because your rear engine seal is right there also..assume you are talking automatic tranny........before you do as posted above gotta get the transfer case outa there..

 

just looked an seen it was a 4x4.u can leave the transfer case on,but does make it a little more awkward to handle.