need opinion/answer right away!!!
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 10,923
Likes: 19
From: NM
When in doubt the Factory Service Manual has your back.
(6) Tighten the nut to 41-54 Nzm (30-40 ft. lbs.)
torque to preload bearing while rotating the hub/rotor.
Stop hub/rotor and loosen nut to completely release
bearing preload torque. Tighten the nut fingertight
and install the nut lock. Install a new cotter
pin.
(7) The adjustment (above) should have 0 to 0.076
mm (0 to 0.003 in.) end play.
torque to preload bearing while rotating the hub/rotor.
Stop hub/rotor and loosen nut to completely release
bearing preload torque. Tighten the nut fingertight
and install the nut lock. Install a new cotter
pin.
(7) The adjustment (above) should have 0 to 0.076
mm (0 to 0.003 in.) end play.
Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 307
Likes: 1
From: tn
crazy is right although i usually do it by feel.
pretty tight while rotating hub. back it off then just snug (i mean just as in the wrenches wheight and one finger laying on it. i have never had any issues with that method even though it's not the right way to do it. if you went to 20ft lb and left it one of two things would happen (had it happen to me on a old ford) either it won't be propery seated/loaded and you have huge amounts of slack after a drive or it will seat but have pressure on it all the time causing it to overheat and fail in about 5-10 thousand miles.
pretty tight while rotating hub. back it off then just snug (i mean just as in the wrenches wheight and one finger laying on it. i have never had any issues with that method even though it's not the right way to do it. if you went to 20ft lb and left it one of two things would happen (had it happen to me on a old ford) either it won't be propery seated/loaded and you have huge amounts of slack after a drive or it will seat but have pressure on it all the time causing it to overheat and fail in about 5-10 thousand miles.