Just push the pedal. Do Rear Right, Left. Then Front Right, Left. Then do it again to assure all air is gone.

 

if you let gravity do it's job that will work ok but will leave air in some places. pressure bleeding (when you hold pressure on the pedel so the system is pressurized) will carry the air more forcefully to the end of the hydraulic circuit.
when you are done with this endevour have someone sit in the truck with their foot firmly on the brakes (running wheels chocked p brake set for safety) and look at all of the splices and fittings to ensure they don't leak. flared tubing has a habbit of not sealing the first time you put it together if it wasn't flared properly. if all dry your good to go.

 

thanks for the advice but i have another problem now the prop. valve censer thing at the top is leaking where can i get a replacement one

 

Don't feel bad I went tru the same with the cheap double flair kits they sell,using pre made lengths is the best way to go in my opinion.

 

i found the best and cheapest way to bend brake line was to heat it slightly with a standard torch (not red hot) and bend it around a pipe slowly. for a small quick bend use a small pipe and for a large bend use a large pipe.

as far as double flaring a line goes it's like welding, practice makes perfect. buy your line about a foot longer then you need and make your flares, if there not right try again until you get it, remember if your line is too long your ok but if it's too short it's game over.

a flaring kit is about $15 at a parts store. you can use it for any steel line including fuel injection lines.