I kluged up a combo mount that takes in the front sway bar as well....as soon as the paint dries, and the oil pan gets a new gasket, I will put the motor back in with tranny attached, mark the magic spots and drill the holes to permanently mount the motor. There are steel brackets going from the ear mounts to the rear part of my mounts.

This one is the Utah project and it gets a used 5.9L and new a518 and 3.55 gears. Nearly all my local Utah driving is short trips, 5 miles one way to the center of nearly everything.
I want to do another for my AZ project, an 87 dakota with 318/999 trans/2.9 rear gears.
AZ driving in the Phoenix area involves a lot of freeway driving on Loop 101.

 

me? i used schumacher mounts and the pan they sell. pricey but its nice stuff and works perfect

 

sorry guys but i'm old school, i would go with the 3 speed tourqueflite. toughest auto tranny ever made or the borg warner 4 speed standard, no computer hookups. i would also put a 340 in it over the 360. that's like putting a Dodge Demon set-up in a Dakota.

if you need any help with the carb set-up just let me know and i'll help you out, like i said i'm old school. the 340 has 240 HP and 340 torque.

BTW: gas mileage will suffer but your going to look pretty good off the line.

 

the 340's are a little hard to find around here. the 318 I got complete and it was running $200 everything from the carb to the pan even the maifolds so it will work for now

 

I made my own for under $200, and don't have the clutter of schumacher or factory mounts. The box on the cross member that supported the drivers side mount got cut off.
I am also going with manual steering, no AC, and will use a floor shift for the auto trans, cable kickdown, etc. so there will be no shift linkage at the end of the steering column or on the frame.

 

I have a factory stock 5.9L and the numbers are not that far off from yours. Factory specs are for EFI, mine will have a barry grant carb, and headers/dual exhausts.
Normally I wouldn't go with headers but with manual steering and 4 banger front springs, I need to cut down on the weight.
I don't race, but do like to put my foot down when entering the freeway, passing old folks on the back roads (I am 65), etc.

 

i had the option to go 340 or 360 for the build. for cheap high performance a 360 is your best bet. it is basically the same as the 340 except it has a stronger bottom end, parts are a **** tonne cheaper and easier to come by. also it costed me 500 bucks to make my a500 hold up to 470 tq. so 500 bucks for an overdrive is well worth it in the gas youll save not driving at 3500 rpm on the highway

 

BTW, Mazda7475, I had a Mazda once, with rotary engine that blew its seals, so I got it cheap. Yanked the rotary, put in a 215 CI/3.5L aluminum v8 from a 62 buick special, with 4BBL, and chevy 3 spd manual with OD, and 4.11 gears from a Ford Courier. Had to put the exhaust manifolds on opposite sides and run the exhaust down from the front of the engine.
It was a fun project, sold it in Idaho just before we moved to AZ.