I dont think the IAC is the problem for the short loss of power while drivin. Like i have said in other post ill will start to drive and will loose power then gain it then loose it. i dont think its the IAC because the Tach never drops in RPM. i did have the tranny rebuilt when i got the truck so i think it is havin a problem engaging or selecting the next gear. but this is where i get stumped, the problem will go away after i drive it for awhile and sometimes if i press on the gas hard and quick it goes away, any ideas, has anyone had this problem?

 

in the old carb days surging meant a "rich" mixture. if it had a miss it was lean. it would seem you have too much fuel to air ratio. the engine surging will seem to effect the tranny but that's not the case, the tranny is probably fine.
i would look for the cause of the high fuel to air mixture at idle, when you open the butterfly valves in the throttlebody the fuel to air is much better (more air). this is a good indication the IAC is bad.
by the way the engine may turn at the same RPM but because of the rich mixture it will lose power.

 

that is exactley what is happening, i have a strong exhaust smell, even though i have not cat it is a lot stronger gas smell like burning to much, so my thinking is wrong? so if i replace the IAC will this problem likley go away if the IAC is replaced? I might have to take a trip to my local pick-npull and buy a few of them for cheaper than a new one ive bought a new one before new and it was damn near $50. i tried to replace the coolant temp sensor but the advance autoparts store didnt have one

 

replacing your IAC won't do anything for the surging you're having while driving; it only goes into affect when you're idling. Check your air filter first, then fuel pressure. It sounds like it could be a sensor, either the coolant temp sensor, IAT, or possibly TPS

 

i have to replace the second CTS, ok im goin to sound like a newb, where is the second CTS? i thought i found it on the drivers side on the front of the intake manifold, but when i went to buy the part the advance auto store didnt have what i was lookin for, am i right on the location and need to go to another store, and if im wrong where do i need to look. and buy the way i have a 1993 5.2

 

there are two sensors, one is for the dashboard gauge and the other is your actual coolant temp sensor that goes to the computer. The one for the dash gauge is a single wire (purple/yellow) and the sensor for the computer has two wires attached. Look for the thermostat housing and right by the thermostat housing is the coolant temp sensor (sometimes there's a wiring harness that covers is up, just lift up the harness and set it aside to access the sensor) Make sure you tell the parts store you need the coolant temp sensor, not the sending unit.

 

i had the coolant temp sensor replaced last year, could it have gone bad that quick? or is it somthin else and where should i start lookin at?

 

the best way to test the ECT is to measure resistance of the ECT. If you have an ohmmeter, disconnect the sensor and measure resistance. When the engine is cold the resistance value should be about 9.1-10.8 KOhms resistance @ 77 F. At 194 F, it should be 860-970 Ohms & @ 212 F 640-720 Ohms. If it's nowhere in that range, you have a bad ECT.

 

could a bad fuel pump or clogged fuel filter cause this problem i have? i dont think the fuel pump has been replaced, i have replaced the fuel filter but maybe it has clooged up because i may have used a gas can without a screen filter