I have a nasty "ticking" sound coming from my transmission area and I want some opinions of where to start looking. I dont know much about auto trans. The "ticking" is very loud. It does not happen when motor/trans is cold. Used to only happen when trans is in park, but is getting worse and now happens when trans is in any gear but only when NOT under load (accelerating or decelerating against the motor). ticking is rpm related and increases in speed with rpms when revving motor at a stop in park. Usually stops in neutral.

Flywheel or torq converter issues?

 

you might have loose flexplate bolts.

 

I will look there first. Should be able to get at them just by removing the cover on the front of the bell housing, right?

 

yes. i had this when i first bought myne and found that the previus owner had two bell bolts tightish missing the others and missing a conveerter bolt and two of the three that were there were loose. needless to say i fixed all that and added lock tight (blue) to the converter bolts. was a tinny knocking sound for me. it's been gone every since.

 

Ok, so after pulling half the **** transmission mounts and the starter, I got the cover off exposing a cracked flexplate. The ticking was the plate hitting the tip of the starter and nearly breaking the end of it off.
Got a new starter, and knowing better, put it all back together hoping the new starter with the end back where it should be and the trans tight to the motor would fix the issue and I could limp a cracked plate for a bit.

Wrong. Worse now than before. Which I knew it would be.... just hoped I might get lucky for once in my life. Wrong.

Anyway.... what's involved in replacing the cracked flexplate? Do you have to pull the trans completely? Shop wants $500 plus $60 plate.

 

Anyone have any advice about replacing this? Have to drop the trans? Will it slide back enough? Dang piece is only like $40 but 500 to install!

 

The transmission will need to be 100% removed. That is why the labor is that high. But in your case it is needed to be replaced now. If you have a buddy that could help you it wont be to bad.

 

Any chance you can shim the starter enough to get the needed clearance?

 

I was afraid I would have to pull it completely.

I think I could possibly shim the starter, but two of the eight members of the flex plate are broke, so I assume its just a matter of time before they all snap and leave the truck completely immobile... Thats my luck.


Better off replacing it. Will see if I can get it up high enough to comfortably get two guys under there.

I visualize it like this: (correct me if Im wrong)
-remove drive shaft (probably not a bad time to replace U-joints too, eh?)
-unbolt trans from motor
-remove support brackets and starter
-disconnect lines from cooler
-disconnect shifter linkage
-unbolt from cross member (will this need to be removed?)
-slide back slightly
-drop straight down

The trans fluid was changed when I put the motor in, Will I lose any fluid when I remove the trans? Is there anything I should do while its out besides a shift kit or something? I really dont want to go into the trans...

Thanks for the help! this will be a first pulling a trans. The motor transplant was a first as well and that went better than I though too, so heres hoping!

 

Be prepared for some work.
- Remove necessary exhaust components. (I had to remove the "Y" that goes from each exhaust manifold, since it went behind the transmission bellhousing)
- Disconnect fluid lines
- Remove starter
- Disconnect speed sensor and speedometer cable/wires
- Remove torque converter access cover
- Remove torque converter bolts
- Remove drive shafts (Book says to mark them for alignment)
- Disconnect wires at park/neutral position switch, solenoid harness, and vehicle speed sensor.
- Disconnect gearshift rod and torqueshaft assembly (the torqueshaft assembly is bolted to the driver-side, forward portion of the transmission)
- Disconnect and remove crankshaft position sensor (in engine bay, passenger side, right where the engine and transmission meet. A little tricky to get to) BE CAREFUL WITH THIS!
- Disconnect throttle rod from lever at left side of transmission.
- Remove transmission fluid filler tube
- Install engine support fixture tool C-3487-A with frame hooks (or a suitable substitute) to support rear of engine. (It's what the book says...)
- Raise transmission SLIGHTLY to relive load on supports
- Double check to make sure all lines/wires/etc are disconnect and moved out of the way
- Remove nuts securing transmission mount from crossmember
- Remove engine-to-transmission bolts
- Work transmission/torque converter rearward off engine block dowels. Attach C-clamp to hold converter in place.
- Remove transmission.

I replaced my 4WD transmission, it makes it a LOT easier to remove the transfer case by itself (not remove the transfer case and transmission as one piece), but my t-case and trans were essentially corroded together, and because of this, I'm sure that is why I had to remove the crossmember. (I don't remember, but I do believe I put the crossmember back in, and than put the new transmission, and than the transfer case, back on)