Non working A/C
So I just recently bought a 96' dakota 4 cylinder 5 speed regular cab. Love the damn thing! The AC/Heater does not come on at all.
I've checked the fuse under the dash, the B fuse in the pcm, and the connection to the back of the control unit for looseness but so far nothing. Anyone got any ideas as to what might be causing this?
You mean the blower won't come on at all?
As festerw said, it might be the resistor under the hood. It's mounted on the firewall, passenger side.
Look in the FAQs. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...e-manuals.html
Most of the time the problem with the resistor is the fan will only work on the high setting. If your fan is not working at all, you can test to see if the whole resistor assembly is bad by jumpering out the resistor pack, as follows:
With your truck off, keys out of the ignition, set the blower switch to off. Open your hood. Remove the electrical connector (passenger side firewall, as shown in the picture in the above link, there are 5 wires).
With a jumper wire, jump from the terminal of the gray wire to the terminal of the thick tan wire (there is a 16 and 12 gauge tan wire, the 12 gauge, the thick one, is the one you want, that one leads to the blower motor.)
Now that the jumper wire is in place, put your keys in the ignition. Turn the truck on, and set the fan switch to high. If the blower comes on, the resistor pack is bad. If the blower does not come on, your problem is elsewhere.
NOTE: The fan speed switch, and therefor the resistor pack, provides the GROUND, not the positive power, for the blower motor. Any time the ignition switch is in the run position the blower motor is receiving positive battery power from fuse 1 (30A) under the dash.
As festerw said, it might be the resistor under the hood. It's mounted on the firewall, passenger side.
Look in the FAQs. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...e-manuals.html
Most of the time the problem with the resistor is the fan will only work on the high setting. If your fan is not working at all, you can test to see if the whole resistor assembly is bad by jumpering out the resistor pack, as follows:
With your truck off, keys out of the ignition, set the blower switch to off. Open your hood. Remove the electrical connector (passenger side firewall, as shown in the picture in the above link, there are 5 wires).
With a jumper wire, jump from the terminal of the gray wire to the terminal of the thick tan wire (there is a 16 and 12 gauge tan wire, the 12 gauge, the thick one, is the one you want, that one leads to the blower motor.)
Now that the jumper wire is in place, put your keys in the ignition. Turn the truck on, and set the fan switch to high. If the blower comes on, the resistor pack is bad. If the blower does not come on, your problem is elsewhere.
NOTE: The fan speed switch, and therefor the resistor pack, provides the GROUND, not the positive power, for the blower motor. Any time the ignition switch is in the run position the blower motor is receiving positive battery power from fuse 1 (30A) under the dash.
Last edited by dodgerules86; Sep 14, 2011 at 02:10 AM.


