92 computer bad?? anyway to test??
#21
#22
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not sure what I mean actually lol
I believe I located the crank and cam sensors. One is about an inch away from the distributer goin straight down into the motor on the passenger side of the distributer. The other is down on the bell housing with a 3 prong plug identical to the one in my picture above. The only difference is the alighnment notches in the pluggins.
The pluggin on what I believe to be the cam sensor is 2 wires. When I energize one of the prongs with 12v there is 12v at a 3rd prong on the relay and there is 12v at that prong even with the 12v test lead I used unhooked. There is 12v at that prong until the multimeter is unhooked, when it is rehooked there is no power until I reenergize one of the prongs at what I believe to be the cam sensor.
Hopefully you can make sense of that. I typed it and am having a little trouble lol
I believe I located the crank and cam sensors. One is about an inch away from the distributer goin straight down into the motor on the passenger side of the distributer. The other is down on the bell housing with a 3 prong plug identical to the one in my picture above. The only difference is the alighnment notches in the pluggins.
The pluggin on what I believe to be the cam sensor is 2 wires. When I energize one of the prongs with 12v there is 12v at a 3rd prong on the relay and there is 12v at that prong even with the 12v test lead I used unhooked. There is 12v at that prong until the multimeter is unhooked, when it is rehooked there is no power until I reenergize one of the prongs at what I believe to be the cam sensor.
Hopefully you can make sense of that. I typed it and am having a little trouble lol
#23
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The PCM triggers the relay by supplying it's ground. So you have 4 prongs on the relay, 2 have constant 12v, 1 is 12v for the relay electromagnet, the other is the 12v that will power the coil/injectors, ect, when the relay is triggered. 1 of the other prongs is the wire that will become energized and power the coil/injectors when the relay is triggered. The last prong is the one that's grounded by the PCM, this is how it's triggered. So when you check if the PCM is triggering the relay, you are checking for a path to ground from this prong. I hope that makes sense.
That's the oil pressure sensor, cam sensor is inside the dizzy.
Yes that's the crank sensor.
I believe I located the crank and cam sensors. One is about an inch away from the distributer goin straight down into the motor on the passenger side of the distributer.
The other is down on the bell housing with a 3 prong plug identical to the one in my picture above. The only difference is the alighnment notches in the pluggins.
#24
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Okay, I have the rotor out, is there a cover that I need to remove, I cant remember now what the inside looks like. How can I test these sensors? Do a continuity test while the motor is cranking, or ohm it out?
Why would powering the oil pressure pluggin complete the ground to the ASD relay? I believe that it is probably the oil pressure but something doesn't add up to me.
Why would powering the oil pressure pluggin complete the ground to the ASD relay? I believe that it is probably the oil pressure but something doesn't add up to me.
#25
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LOL I never heard of the distributor called dizzy until I joined this forum.
I know there is another term I never heard of to till I seen it here but I can't think of it.
LOL I guess different places have their own general terms for stuff.
For test procedures on the sensors refer to the service manual we have in the FAQ. It has all the details you need on everything including pictures of locations on the sensors and full wiring diagrams that will help with your diagnostics.
I know there is another term I never heard of to till I seen it here but I can't think of it.
LOL I guess different places have their own general terms for stuff.
For test procedures on the sensors refer to the service manual we have in the FAQ. It has all the details you need on everything including pictures of locations on the sensors and full wiring diagrams that will help with your diagnostics.
Last edited by Crazy4x4RT; 10-05-2011 at 02:09 AM.
#26
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is there a free one? All I found was one you buy one year access to or five year access
I have access to a haynes that a friend of mine has but there is nothing for igntion testing besides testing the coil
would a different brand one be better? I really like having a paper bound manual at and not running into the house every minute to look at the computer, and my computer isnt coming out to the shop or yard again, bad things happen when I do that
I have access to a haynes that a friend of mine has but there is nothing for igntion testing besides testing the coil
would a different brand one be better? I really like having a paper bound manual at and not running into the house every minute to look at the computer, and my computer isnt coming out to the shop or yard again, bad things happen when I do that
#27
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Yes free to download.
1995 Dodge Dakota Factory Service Manual PDF
http://rapidshare.com/files/422914781/95_D_DFSM.ZIP
1996 Dodge Dakota Facory Service Manual PDF
http://rapidshare.com/files/20546066...AN_SERVICE.ZIP
1996 Dodge Dakota Powertrain Dianostic Chart
http://rapidshare.com/files/20554250...iagnostics.pdf
http://rapidshare.com/files/422914781/95_D_DFSM.ZIP
1996 Dodge Dakota Facory Service Manual PDF
http://rapidshare.com/files/20546066...AN_SERVICE.ZIP
1996 Dodge Dakota Powertrain Dianostic Chart
http://rapidshare.com/files/20554250...iagnostics.pdf
#28
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ok I got it thanks
I am getting a reading of 5.9 milliohms on the crank sensor and the manual says it should read really high or overload and if you get a low reading to replace.
How hard and is it possible to replace the sensor with the motor in the vehicle. If so how much stuff needs to be removed to get to it?
I still need to test the cam sensor but I already found one issue so I thought I better get this posted up.
I am getting a reading of 5.9 milliohms on the crank sensor and the manual says it should read really high or overload and if you get a low reading to replace.
How hard and is it possible to replace the sensor with the motor in the vehicle. If so how much stuff needs to be removed to get to it?
I still need to test the cam sensor but I already found one issue so I thought I better get this posted up.