Yea, the tabs on the float assembly are a fairly common culprit. (It is nice to have a working gauge again.)
Essentially a free fix. Just some time spent.

 

Ok this weekend I will take a look at it

 

good luck keep us updated

 

After 380K+ miles, I've replaced the fuel pump/sender unit a few times. The bouncing is a pretty good indication that's your problem. The resistor part of the gauge sender is metal printed onto a small circuit board. It wears out wherever your tank normally sits (mine usually at about 3/4 full). Below that, it would read fine, above that usually nothing or bouncing up and down.

Pump/sender unit OEM is Carter. Sold by NAPA as well. I think there's another aftermarket mfg out there now.

They last around 120k miles if you keep enough gasoline to cool the pump in the tank, less if you run it empty a lot. High pressure pump runs almost continuously in early models, on-demand in '94 and later.

Done both bed off and from the bottom. I think I prefer the bed off, but that's a whole lot easier if you have an overhead hoist available. Make sure and change your inline fuel filter at the same time. There's a prefilter as part of the pump/sensor, but the inline filter on the '92-'93 continuously filters the fuel thanks to the open-loop fuel circuit.

- Jim

 

Hmmm, come to think of it, I think it worked the other way around. It would read fine for fuel levels above the break, then get bouncy at and below the break.

- Jim

 

Yeah, I'd go with removing the bed. Unbolt it (6 bolts, I think) and the 4 screws holding in the gas cap, and unhook the wiring to the rear lights. While it's off, paint some of the frame to help prevent rust.
Good luck to ya

 

my fuel gauge isn't working but my gas light comes on so the float is working so i am thinking it is just a bad ground or something. do you think that you could give me so advice on what it might be?

 

check the power going to the gauge and if your getting power then its something wrong with the sending unit as previously stated above.