Hi, I've been reading on here for awhile, but just became a member, so I hope I am posting this in the correct area. OK, here goes, I bought this '95 Dakota Sport in '07 from someone who had cracked both heads on this 3.9L V6. Well, I have recently began working on it, I dropped the oil pan, replaced the oil pump, cleaned the top-end, put the motor back together, and even dropped the fuel tank (to dump out the old gas). Now, that it is all put back together, I can't get it to start. I've got spark, fuel, and it's tries to start, but just isn't getting it. I've checked the splice, the fuses, the relays, the grounds, and all that, but to no avail. I was thinking the timing was off and have tried moving the distributor to every position and...nothing! Any ideas?

Oh, the motor is turning over, fuel pump is working, no service engine light, but I do see a "GEN" light coming on and I'm not sure about what that's all about. I have only replaced the oil pressure sending unit, the cylinder heads, spark plugs and wires, and obviously all the gasket from the head gaskets up. Suggestions?

 

spark plugs and WIRES sure you got them all right?

 

I believe so, but I'll re-check to make sure it's all right, I read about the splices and checked those earlier. They seemed fine, shrink-wrapped and all of that, maybe I should rip them apart and re-do them? It started right up before I tore it down, but it's been relocated and put back together. I checked the fuel injectors, but I'd hate to admit this, I forgot to unplug the ignition coil, so boom, fire! Don't worry, I put it out immediately with no damage done, just my pride for being retarded. Anyway, that's proof positive it's got spark and fuel. I'll hand crank it to No 1 TDC, pull off the distributor cap, verify plug wires are in the correct order and that I put the distributor back on correctly. Hopefully re-checking all the timing parts will solve the problem. It is really trying to start, it'll start to fire up for a brief time, but just isn't getting it. Figure I'll check all the vacuum lines to, though most have been replaced while doing the head job. Comments, questions, concerns, please feel free.

 

Here this diagram may help set it up correct. (From the FAQ) Also the intake manifold has the cylinder numbers and firing order stamped on it.

 

Well, I hand cranked it to No 1 TDC and reworked the distributor, it's cap(took it apart and cleaned all of the contacts), and re-checked spark plug wires. I went ahead and removed the IAC (which was filthy) and cleaned it all up. Nothing! This is killing me, I think my next step will be to check the compression, see if something isn't working right. For those reading this and willing to help me out, I'll give some more details:
It does crank.
Fuel/Spark present
If I hold the gas pedal all the way down I get popping and false start(tries but just isn't getting there).
No 'Check Engine' light
The only thing that stand out to me are 1) I do not have the exhaust pipe hooked up to the manifolds & 2) while cranking over it sounds normal except I do hear sort of a hollow thud(not very descriptive, I know).
Also, checked for any codes, all I got was 12 -> 55, so that isn't helping.

If anyone has a guess/theory, I'm all ears!

 

I'm may not be much help, but you say your not getting a CEL. Check for codes anyways. They don't always trigger a CEL.

 

Checked that too.

 

Well, I got it running! Turns out it was 180deg out of time, I found out by hand cranking it to TDC, again, but, lo and behold the rotor was facing the other way. Set it back right and voila! It came to life! I am still have a too-low of an idle issue, but that could just be the low octane gas, from sitting so long, not sure yet. Any advice, and how hard will it be to find myself a rim for a spare?

 

Awesome, glad it's running again. I spent the better part of a week trying to figure the same thing out after a head swap on a civic wagovan awhile back. It's always nice when it turns out to be something simple lol. The low idle could be TPS, or MAP?? How low is it? Mine is around 500 after warm up which is low, but never been able to figure it out. It stays normal until I come to a complete stop, then drops down. As far as a finding a rim, any junkyard or pick a part should have one. Don't think It'll cost you more than 20 bucks.

 

Well, how low of an idle? So low it won't stay running without holding the accelerator down slightly and very little pedal makes it rev up a bit too quickly. Here's what I've done:

I've set the timing as close as possible to 4degrees of TDC.
Check the vacuum system; reads good actually, very well (I did replace most of the hoses.)
Checked voltage readings at the MAP sensor - Read with 0.1 volts of specifications.
Checked the TPS sensor (Here may be my problem) - Did read within specifications, however, let me show the numbers:
Lower limit spec, key ON, - 200millivolts : Lowest reading - 400millivolts
WOT spec, key ON, - <4.8volts : Highest reading before Infinite - 1.999volts

I have a theory that it could be on its way out, might explain the issue if the cpu is adjusted to say the air/fuel mix based on a known scale like the spec instead of adjusting the scales it sees (which it can't know prior to a test in which it recorded the voltage range in memory while someone told it this is idle, this is WOT). Speaking like a developer, huh?

I have checked other sensors and all but the TPS read very close to specs.
Questions, comments, concerns, or advice?