This is the 95 SLT 4x4 with a 318.
I replaced all the vacuum and smog lines, took off the egr valve and checked it for operationality, and replaced the egr transducer.
The check engine light went away and started idling smooth, but now all of a sudden, after 50-60 miles, the check engine light comes on, but if I pull over, check the code (32), and start it back up, the check engine light goes away until another 50-60 miles, maybe less.
The battery is shot (open door drains it within 15 minutes), so next time I make the trip to the Zone, i need to pick one up, but it starts every time and runs smooth, it just doesnt feel like theres alot of ponies pulling it as much as I would think (0-60 in 12.2 seconds).
I also had a stuck thermostat, which I haven't replaced yet. I just squeezed the upper hose frantically and magically the thermostat unstuck (for now), and now its getting closer to operating temp as not to throw a code, but still too far left on the gauge.

So..am I probably looking at replacing the egr valve; could the battery have anything to do with it; or the thermostat being stuck open?
I'll be doing the battery and thermostat tomorrow, but would prefer not to replace what seems to be a properly operating egr valve at $90.00 if I don't have to.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

The bad battery will cause all sorts of problems. For me my truck would die at stop signs, and had a funky idle. I searched when I bought mine and ORielley was cheaper than anywhere else. 18 month or 2 year warranty, can't recall.

 

Unfortunately, I'm banned from O'reilly's after telling the owner he was half retarded, lol. I was being nice (because he's completely retarded)
But the Buckeye AutoZone gives me a discount (the last discount was 100%. I bought a tranny filter/gasket and 12 quarts of atf+4 and was never charged for it). The 27 series Duralast Gold battery - 3 year free replacement, 7 year prorated - $71.88 out the door with my core (which may explode soon after I leave..I filled it with boiled well water since the cells were nearly bone dry).
He also put a 180 degree thermostat aside for me - $11.88 with gasket.
He said Hypertech was the best; is that true for our trucks, or does it matter? I could also get a duralast 180 degree with gasket for $4.08

Thanks for the reply..I hope it's the battery

 

Hahahahaha LOL

They quoted me more @ autozone when I called, but probably because were in different locations. I think that's about what they were asking for mine, but I got the low price guarantee because one of the small town places had it for 60 or so. I went with orielleys because it's across the state line, and didn't have to pay tax.
I would go with the better thermostat, but can't remember exactly what brand the 180* I threw in was. It was more than $5 though. Good luck, I had a heck of a time with mine. Not in the easiest location. It would of helped if I had magnetic tools to hold the bolt in the socket while trying to get it in the hole.

 

Crud. I just stumbled onto Autozones facebook page, and they have a coupon for 30% off batteries, but it expires at midnight. That would have brought their Gold series 27-DLG down to $63.88 from store price.

I just cut a piece of magnet out of my refrigerator magnet beer opener and shoved it into the end of a socket, we'll see how that goes.

 

That's a good idea if the magnets strong enough. Wish I would of though of that lol. Ought to make it a lot easier.

 

The magnet worked to put the bolts back in, but it wasn't strong enough to take them out with all the crud on them.
Here's a related question:
Should the thermostat come out one piece at a time? It was like playing the game of operation in there, literally pulling one piece of the thermostat out at a time.


Also, does this look like normal operating temperature for 180 degree thermostat? Usually, it never leaves the second line from the C mark, so I'm happy about that, plus the code 32 went away, which I don't understand. (for now anyways).

 

Dang! That is one toasted thermostat!!! LOL
That is running warmer than mine usually is. It's usually hovering right above that second line like you said. It should be fine, unless maybe air bubbles in the coolant? Did you bleed it?

 

Hey are you sure you got all of it? There is more to a thermostat than what I see in your picture.

 

Running warmer is what I was hoping for, whew.
I actually put air bubbles intentionally to get it warm, and that's as high as it got. Since it's 100 degrees here in the Winter, and my truck was complaining she was cold, I was getting worried. (Complaining by way of ODBI code), but that was before I replaced the fragged up thermo.

Interesting fact: Thermostat comes from the ancient Greek word Thermo, unlike most of todays common languages, which are derived from Ancient Latin.

Interesting fact: Vampyre comes from Ancient Greek and Latin; the only word that is derived from both ancient languages.
The misspelled word vampire with an "I" was pure accidental, when Bram stroker, in a drunken stage in the 19th century (while writing Dracula), misspelled it, and to this day, EVERYONE misspells it. vampyre literally translates to "Rise from the fire (or funeral pyre).
The history states that in the 1st Century, a Latin corpse buried in a Greek church, would rise from the fire (vampyre - to rise from the pyre), and consume the youth of the beautiful. In fact, several Latin bodies did disappear from Greek churches, but to devour the blood of the young and beautiful was fabricated. Also, to those of us Christians, Jesus was considered a "vampyre", and raw sapphires gave vampyres their source of power... Now You Know, And Knowing Is Half The Battle..G.I Joe, American Hero, lol.

Sorry for being off subject, out of work eidetic bipolar, ocd history teacher, damn economy.