motor mounts for v8 dak
#13
It is basically 11" of 5x7 angle iron, trimmed to be 5x7 at one end, and 5x5 at the other.
Gussets are not full, but partial, I have 3, 2 would be enough as I used 1/4" plate.
This eliminates the front sway bar frame mounts as I have the bar mounted to the front half of the home made mount.
INSIDE the frame I used square "hillside" (angle) washers so the nuts on the inside had a level/squared surface to torgue against . My arms aren't fat so I had no trouble reaching in far enough to attach the nuts, and to grip the nuts with an open end wrench while tightening the outside end...
The aluminum spacer blocks used to align the angle to the frame are about 1" on the short side, 2" across the bottom, and 1.375 on the high side. You guys might want to check all these numbers.....
That is about all I can do for now, the shop is COLD and I was shaking too much to get better measurements...
Some sway bars have a steel bolt-on crossmember going across the frame brackets, mine does, but I will have to shorten it a bit and redrill the end holes as I have the sway bar bushing mounts moved in a bit. I may not even reinstall it.
The blocks for the sway bar positioning I forgot to measure.....
I will turn the heat on tomorrow afternoon and get some closeups and measure the rest...
I will also post new pics meaning I will have to delete the ones already posted. It will shoe the control arms painted, new bushings and ball joints and v6 springs...
What does it take to be able to have more than 3 pics stored?
Gussets are not full, but partial, I have 3, 2 would be enough as I used 1/4" plate.
This eliminates the front sway bar frame mounts as I have the bar mounted to the front half of the home made mount.
INSIDE the frame I used square "hillside" (angle) washers so the nuts on the inside had a level/squared surface to torgue against . My arms aren't fat so I had no trouble reaching in far enough to attach the nuts, and to grip the nuts with an open end wrench while tightening the outside end...
The aluminum spacer blocks used to align the angle to the frame are about 1" on the short side, 2" across the bottom, and 1.375 on the high side. You guys might want to check all these numbers.....
That is about all I can do for now, the shop is COLD and I was shaking too much to get better measurements...
Some sway bars have a steel bolt-on crossmember going across the frame brackets, mine does, but I will have to shorten it a bit and redrill the end holes as I have the sway bar bushing mounts moved in a bit. I may not even reinstall it.
The blocks for the sway bar positioning I forgot to measure.....
I will turn the heat on tomorrow afternoon and get some closeups and measure the rest...
I will also post new pics meaning I will have to delete the ones already posted. It will shoe the control arms painted, new bushings and ball joints and v6 springs...
What does it take to be able to have more than 3 pics stored?
Last edited by bill55az; 11-26-2011 at 09:30 PM.
#14
As for storing more than three pics, I don't know what's necessary on this board, but there are services (Photobucket comes to mind right away) that can host your pix and you just paste links to them in your messages.
#15
no need for apologizing.....
I have never liked the cold, having been raised in Houston, TX, and now I am a lot older and have Parkinson's. so I shake SOME all the time, and the cold amplifies it. I should be in AZ now, but the wife says this year we don't head south til after Christmas...and anybody who has ever been married knows that when the wife speaks, the smart man listens...
I have never liked the cold, having been raised in Houston, TX, and now I am a lot older and have Parkinson's. so I shake SOME all the time, and the cold amplifies it. I should be in AZ now, but the wife says this year we don't head south til after Christmas...and anybody who has ever been married knows that when the wife speaks, the smart man listens...
#17
my home made motor mounts allow for removal of the mopar mount support box on the drivers side of the crossmember.
I have also gone to manual steering....
and will go to a cable shifter directly from the tranny hump, and cable kickdown....
with all that, and the original motor mounts out of the way, should be more room for headers...
I have also gone to manual steering....
and will go to a cable shifter directly from the tranny hump, and cable kickdown....
with all that, and the original motor mounts out of the way, should be more room for headers...
#18
Mounts are done....and I ended up pushing the motor back a bit over an inch. I drilled new holes on the frame "shelf" and slotted the crossmember bolt holes. If I did this right, there will still be 3/4" behind the distributor. If I need more, there is always the big hammer approach. Denting the firewall is easy, if there is nothing important behind it. I also have some sheetmetal trays that could be grafted in.
There is about 3/8" of space between oil pan and rack/pinion, but that would change depending on which oil pan is used. I can add more spacers under the mounts if I need more elevation. Right now the big 92-93 exhaust manifolds and Y pipe are on it, will try the shorty headers again now that the engine position is finalized. Doing pics here is slow going, if this is to be a FAQ, I need to send the pics to a moderator.
There is about 3/8" of space between oil pan and rack/pinion, but that would change depending on which oil pan is used. I can add more spacers under the mounts if I need more elevation. Right now the big 92-93 exhaust manifolds and Y pipe are on it, will try the shorty headers again now that the engine position is finalized. Doing pics here is slow going, if this is to be a FAQ, I need to send the pics to a moderator.
#19
Sure send me the pics in a PM if needed, I'll post them up.
#20