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motor mounts for v8 dak

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  #31  
Old 12-26-2011, 07:47 PM
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body on frame again.....summit headers do NOT fit, they either make contact with passenger side rear pivot of UCA, or with the brake booster...depending on how high I shim the motor mounts. But the factory 92-93 exhaust manifolds fit fine...
 

Last edited by bill55az; 12-28-2011 at 05:09 PM.
  #32  
Old 12-26-2011, 11:20 PM
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Cool! It is good to see it is still coming along.
 
  #33  
Old 12-27-2011, 04:57 AM
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This info is timely. Have a slight exhaust leak that can be heard on start up but see no escape of vapor on these cold days. I was thinking I would have to redo it all and the info on summits stuff sure helps. Before I try for Junkyard stuff and abandon summitt I am not sure from the thread if you moved the motor back or is it in the factory position?
 

Last edited by 89newbie; 12-27-2011 at 05:10 AM.
  #34  
Old 12-27-2011, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by 89newbie
This info is timely. Have a slight exhaust leak that can be heard on start up but see no escape of vapor on these cold days. I was thinking I would have to redo it all and the info on summits stuff sure helps. Before I try for Junkyard stuff and abandon summitt I am not sure from the thread if you moved the motor back or is it in the factory position?
In my case, the motor is moved toward the center a bit less than an inch, and back one inch....neither of which will make much difference with the headers situation. Who wants a hot header tube even close to the brake booster...?
I did order 1996 headers, to avoid the EGR tap, but that shouldn't make a difference. Later on I will be replacing the motor mounts with polyurethane which will lift the motor a bit, as the rubber ones I have now are not new and there is some sag. I doubt there is much HP to gain using the shorties, just going duals or large diameter single exhaust will gain about as much. Long tube headers would be the way to go if looking for the most HP, but that wasn't my goal. I was trying to save weight.

Only way I can see to use the shorty headers is to put in a smaller diameter brake booster.

Oh, and the mounting "ear" on passenger side makes contact with the oil filter. If they had rotated that a bit, that issue could have been avoided. As it is, I would need to trim the end of the ear, ending up with an open ended slot instead of a hole.
 

Last edited by bill55az; 12-27-2011 at 09:57 AM.
  #35  
Old 02-08-2014, 06:51 PM
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I ran into that oil pan problem when i dropped a 318 la into a 96 dak...... i took the bearing cap off the 3.9 and kept the bearing from the 318 and used the magnum bearing cap on the la block.... so i could use the rear sump oil pan to avoid the steering system.... my frame was a 4x4, now a 2x4. i also kept my motor foreward about 4 inches so i got plenty of room at the rear, just have run an external electric cooling fan blowing "in" stead of "sucking" in..... the 318, and the 727 were out of the same car....... 68 plymouth fury. made my own shift linkage from both so i kept the column shift in the truck, and i used the speedo cable from the car.... hooked right up in the truck. and i had to make my own trans. cross member mount out of angle iron. spent $300 for an aluminum drive shaft, baaam, down the road she goes!!! still got body work to do..... if i could figure out how to post pics. i got about 30 pics. of the process i would post up.
I also had to drop the tank and eliminate the electric fuel pump.
 

Last edited by rebeltaz83; 02-08-2014 at 06:56 PM.
  #36  
Old 03-30-2014, 12:38 PM
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rock auto has new ones cheap.
 



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