about a week ago i saved a 96 lumina(which i paid $200 for) from the scrapyard because of a sticky thermostat. at the time i had a small leak in the brake line right under the cab and just last friday the brakes went out completely as i was trying to leave work.

so i finally got time to fix it. the line that was leaking was from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve under the cab(it had rusted clean off at the valve). figured while i was replacing the one i'd replace the other while i was at it.

original plan was to replace all the lines at once and not have to worry about the headache of another line breaking down the road. well, i found out that there is no metering valve up by the booster like my old 93 had, the truck has 2 proportioning valves(1 under the cab, 1 behind the fuel tank above the rear axle)...makes it a little easier but when i do a v8 swap would i have to change it over to the newer set up?

$30 later i had 2 new lines, brake fluid and all the correct fittings(last time i shop at that store) but now i'm stuck at the part of trying to remove the old the fittings from the valve. tried everything between 1/2 - 9/16 and 13mm - 14mm the 1/2 is to small and the 14 is too big. so i figured for $2 more i can change the line going to the front T but i would need a new proportioning valve (which my friend is giving me for free once he finds it).

then on top of that one of the previous owners decided to use compression fittings on the brake lines(the ones used for nylon/copper lines) so far it works but for how long?

btw the lumina is a 96 with 154k on the clock a new $4 thermostat and some coolant/antifreeze it runs good as new. the marks vehicle number 4...lol i'm running out of room in my driveway.

 

This is not a Chevy forum. LOL JK.

Sounds like a good project for a good price. Ya replace everything you can.

 

and i'm not a gm guy but i still managed to buy two of them for less then a grand in total...lol and that includes what i put into the repairs to get them running...lmfao i get to tease all the gm guys about it.

but my ultimate question i guess would be since there isn't a metering valve on the truck would i have to put one in when i swap to a v8? or should i be good with the 2 proportioning valves?

 

I don't see why you would have to change anything with just a motor swap, if you were upgrading the brakes maybe but I'd be inclined to let it go.

On getting the fitting out have you tried 12 point sockets they are usually more forgiving in my experience or plan B is a pair of vise grips.

 

i tried 12 points they went on tight but slipped right away. luckily they didn't wreck the fittings. my uncle lent me his line wrench set so hopefully i'll be able to get the one brakeline holding the prop valve to the truck. once that is off i can put the valve in a vice and get the old fittings out.

i gotta stop letting my friends borrow my cars...they keep breaking them on me...

 

been meaning to update this for a couple days now.

the line wrench worked to get the one line off(which i replaced anyway)

i pulled the valve out and got the bad fittings out(they were rounded off)

i cleaned off the proportioning valve and ran all new lines on the front of the truck except for one, which was half good so i replaced the rusted half(hopefully it works out). got fluid in the lines bled rears at every connection from the valve to the drums themselves.

then came the issue...I have no brake pressure. i re-bled the rears but they were good for now. as i was bleeding the fronts (i had gotten to the valve) i had no fluid going out toward the the front T. soaked in brake fluid i valiantly pulled my work of art apart(i cried a little too), sprayed some brakeleen in the front part to clean it out a bit and even then as i stuck the straw in the opening and sprayed hoping to clear any cloggage but to no avail. so i came ot the conclusion the valve is bad.

now the question, since i can't find a new one specifically for the truck can i get one for a different truck? as long as its a 2 in 2 out deal(like the old one) and what is that sensor for thats on the top of the old valve? i couldn't figure out how to disconnect it so i clipped the wire for the time being.

 

If it's like my 92 there is a plunger on the valve under the cab that has to be either pushed in or pulled out for fluid to go to both systems. It's a failsafe for a blown line.

 

maybe. there is a post on 1 side of the valve. when i push the pedal down it feels like its about to build pressure then slips

 

i've been sick the past week and everyones been telling me to rest but (f**k that s**t...lol) i can't rest it drives me up a wall. lol

i ended up having to replace the master cylinder and the check valve spent 4 hours the other night bleeding the lines again and finally got some pressure but the he pedal still goes to the floor.

brakes are well enough to stop and hold the truck but with the mild cam in there the truck jerks forward trying to go. lol

i still haven't gotten to pull that pin on the prop valve yet. been to sore to crawl under the truck and being the strongest of all my friends(sadly) i actually have to pull/push it myself...lol