first time posting and i have been trying to research and find things on doing this particular swap but have not found much, everything that i find says to just buy a 3.9 model and swap it but i already own the 2.5 model standard cab swb with the 5spd, what i want to do is put a la 360 in it and put a hydraulic lock up trans such as 42rh or 46rh from the early and mid 90s 1500 and 2500 model trucks, my main concerns with this are, 1. is there any steering issues that i will have to work around? (other than power steering my arms are going to be all the power i need) 2. will the 3.9 front springs be strong enough (i know the 2.5 wouldnt be strong enough) 3. rear end will need to be changed will the 3.9 rear end hold up to the questionable power aprox 300~350hp 4. will the 3.9 2wd swb drive shaft work or will i need to have one cut? any input or suggestions would be great. oh and i already have 2 360 blocks, hence the reason for not putting in 5.2 options

 

Welcome to DF. There has been a few that said they did the 4 Cly- V8 swap. The info was very limited and no details. From what they have said if you get a COMPLETE V8 all brackets ect then it is a simple drop in.

As for using an LA V8 (91-down) Vs a Magnum V8 (92-02), if your using it in stock form then your 4 cylinder probably makes more HP then the STOCK LA. (Maybe not literally) Unless your looking to rebuild with tons of performance parts and lots of machining your not going to make 300HP. Stock 360 LA NEW (not used) at engine (not wheels) is probably 120HP or less. I know you said you got 2 LA blocks and that is why your not doing the Magnum but in stock forum LA's sucks vs in stock forum Mangums are great.

Your best bet to get the most out a big project is to get a 5.9 Magnum V8 from a Ram/Dakota/Van/Durango from 93-02. Get it complete! The 93-95 Magnums uses the OBD1 system which all engine control system is under the hood.

As for transmissions a 92-95 V8 transmission will be best which is the 46rh, the electronics can be hooked up to simple switches if needed. If your doing a Magnum V8 then the 42rh will be to weak. If your doing a stock LA V8 then the 42rh probably will be just fine.

As for the springs, the V6 springs will be fine but it will lower the truck a bit. V8 springs will be best, easy to get too.

The rear end may be fine, it just depends on which one you got. Oval diff cover is the Chry 8.25 which can handle the power. Octagon cover is the Chry 7.25 which may handle it but swapping out that axle is best.

3.9 Gears will be great for most power.

 

if you add magnum heads to your LA block, you will get about as much HP as the magnum version does....but getting a complete magnum engine and wiring from a 95 dakota 5.2 or ram 5.9 will probably be easier in the long run. The LA blocks use the ears at front and top of block for mounting, magnums use pads at the middle lower part of the block.

 

The LA's had really low compression compared to the Magnums. Some of the low compression will be from the heads some will also be with the engine block. So for true Magnum compression with the Magnum heads, the block will need to be decked. Also the TBI injection as well as the PCM will not be able to give near enough as the Magnum Multiport injection.

 

There is only one way to do it, imo, go with the Magnum Motor, no doubt. We have 2 older cars with LA 360s in them, with cams, and everything, and they are still not as fast as our '92 Dak with 5.2 stock.

 

ok so i have done a little digging around and it turns out that a person i work with has a daily driver 94 2500 with the magnum 5.9 he said he would sell the WHOLE TRUCK for NO MORE than $900 which means i get a running 5.9 mag and trans cpu harness driveshaft and rear-end...(just in case i wanted to cut it down i guess) i had thoughts of putting a slightly more aggresive camshaft (p.s. whats the factory camshaft in this truck and what is the max that i can take it up to?) in this truck and doing away with the fuel injection and running a intake and carb just to do away with most of the electronics because i want this to be kinda simple to work on but would i lose performance doing this i know i would lose the ease of start-up on cold days but i live in AL...its not that cold often down here

 

That is a nice buy and we usually put the Edelbrock carb with 12 v choke and the start up is great and you would have to use an electric fuel pump which would bring the fuel up right away. My only question is the same as yours . . . would the hp still be there without the electronics?

 

$900 for the entire truck, (as long as the drivetrain is in good condition) is worth it.
Since you have the entire truck I say use the FI. You will have every wire ect.

As for factory cam specs go here.

As for dobaroy and your question on HP loss with out the FI. It depends on what carb and ignition/distributor you get. If you go for top of the line where the carb costs more than the donor truck, then yes they can make more HP.

But most likely your not going all out on price, if you go with some used stock style parts your going to probably loose HP.

The FI is really a great system when all is working correctly. You will get the most HP/TQ and MPG from it since it can adjust it self, where carbs can't. Elevation changes can also affect carbs big time, the FI wont even flinch.