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truck doesn't start, help fast please

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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 10:07 PM
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Default truck doesn't start, help fast please

93 Dodge Dakota on Craigslist listed for 1100, said he will give it to me for 650.

His post says:
ext cab, 6 ft bed, black, AT, 318 magnum v8, fuel injected, 215k miles, was running fine until about a month ago it wouldnt start, i replaced spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor button, fuel filter, and tried a new battery... still no luck but im sure its something simple, body in fair shape minus a few dents. no rust. transmission shifts fine. replaced radiator, water pump, thermostat and some coolant hoses less than 5000 miles ago. call or text 5%%%&**** asking 1100 OBO... PRICE IS NEGOTIABLE

I'm thinking a bad coil.. could it also be a blown head gasket? Fuel pump?

I don't want to get it if it has a blown head, what would be a way to determine if it does have a blown head? Just check the dipstick to see if it's milky?
 

Last edited by Siwon; Feb 7, 2012 at 10:21 PM.
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 11:51 PM
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You should be able to hear the pump when you turn the key to the "on" position.Try a small amount of starting fluid into the throttle body if starts you know it's fuel delivery if not,try pulling one of the spark plugs plug it back into the wire and set it on the manifold and have someone watch for spark to test the coil.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 11:52 PM
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You should be able to hear the pump when you turn the key to the "on" position.Try a small amount of starting fluid into the throttle body if starts you know it's not fuel delivery if not,try pulling one of the spark plugs,plug it back into the wire and set it on the manifold and turn it over and have someone watch for spark to test the coil.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2012 | 12:01 AM
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Thanks, and if there is spark, how do you test these types of ignition coils?

Are the 2 prongs in the port for the primary coil and the one sticking out for the distributor, and just test for resistance between the 2 prongs and then one prong and the distributor one?

Autozone says:
Minimum Primary Resistance Range: .7 - 1.4 Minimum Secondary Resistance Range: 10.0k - 15.5k

 

Last edited by Siwon; Feb 8, 2012 at 12:04 AM.
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Old Feb 8, 2012 | 12:33 AM
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Be careful. If you get the truck running BEFORE you pay for it all he has to do is say it's no longer for sale and you're out the parts plus your labor.

Saw this happen with a buddy of mine on a Durango. He dropped the fuel tank, cleaned it out and installed a new fuel pump. After he got it running all of a sudden it wasn't for sale anymore. Just a heads up.
 

Last edited by bwdakrt; Feb 8, 2012 at 07:01 AM.
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Old Feb 8, 2012 | 01:45 AM
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Ya sign the paper work and swap cash then fix the truck on spot and drive it home.

Most likely the fuel pump or the notorious splice. The FAQ has details on it.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Siwon
Thanks, and if there is spark, how do you test these types of ignition coils?

Are the 2 prongs in the port for the primary coil and the one sticking out for the distributor, and just test for resistance between the 2 prongs and then one prong and the distributor one?

Autozone says:
Minimum Primary Resistance Range: .7 - 1.4 Minimum Secondary Resistance Range: 10.0k - 15.5k


They way I explained about taking a spark plug out plug it back into the wire and set it on the manifold have you or someone watch it while the other turns the truck over.No spark you have a bad coil.
 
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