Need injector advise for 92 Dakota
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Registered User
Joined: Feb 2012
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Need injector advise for 92 Dakota
So, chasing what I think is a bad injector in my 1992 Dodge Dakota, 5.2 v8.
Back story:
I have a miss but no codes. Changed cap and rotor, ran some gas cleaner thru it. No change. Changed plugs for new ones and then took a ride...still had the miss....rechecked plugs and compression, compression is fine but found all plugs looked like they had been used (white film/crust on them) except #4, which looks like a brand new plug. I have plenty of spark at #4. So that points to no fuel at #4.
Injector on #4 measures same ohms (.014) as the others and pulling the wire while running throws a code, but if the wire is connected , no code.
I am thinking it is #4 just clogged solid. Sound right? If there is no fuel flowing thru #4, shouldnt it throw a code?
Debating whether to change just that injector or replace all. Truck has 103k miles or so, injectors have never been serviced.
Vehicle sits a lot in storage.
Seeing as the requirement is to change the o-rings on injectors when you pull them, and since I have to pull all 4 on the one side at least, thinking I might just replace all of them on the engine and be done with it. $70 locally for one injector.....$300 for all 8 online.
Looked at a vendor called "5-0 motorsport" online and they offer rebuilt stock injectors and then new bosch 19lb and 23 lb injectors....
Can I run the 23 lbs for more performance with no problems? Or should I stick with the 19 lbs? The truck has a bigger exhaust and a K&N drop in and power pulleys....the CPU is now stock after the "performance" cpu started having issues years ago.
Can going to 23lb injectors make a real difference? The vendor says "better mileage, increased response over stock".
Thanks all...
Back story:
I have a miss but no codes. Changed cap and rotor, ran some gas cleaner thru it. No change. Changed plugs for new ones and then took a ride...still had the miss....rechecked plugs and compression, compression is fine but found all plugs looked like they had been used (white film/crust on them) except #4, which looks like a brand new plug. I have plenty of spark at #4. So that points to no fuel at #4.
Injector on #4 measures same ohms (.014) as the others and pulling the wire while running throws a code, but if the wire is connected , no code.
I am thinking it is #4 just clogged solid. Sound right? If there is no fuel flowing thru #4, shouldnt it throw a code?
Debating whether to change just that injector or replace all. Truck has 103k miles or so, injectors have never been serviced.
Vehicle sits a lot in storage.
Seeing as the requirement is to change the o-rings on injectors when you pull them, and since I have to pull all 4 on the one side at least, thinking I might just replace all of them on the engine and be done with it. $70 locally for one injector.....$300 for all 8 online.
Looked at a vendor called "5-0 motorsport" online and they offer rebuilt stock injectors and then new bosch 19lb and 23 lb injectors....
Can I run the 23 lbs for more performance with no problems? Or should I stick with the 19 lbs? The truck has a bigger exhaust and a K&N drop in and power pulleys....the CPU is now stock after the "performance" cpu started having issues years ago.
Can going to 23lb injectors make a real difference? The vendor says "better mileage, increased response over stock".
Thanks all...
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 10,923
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From: NM
First I would suggest to test your fuel pressure and your fuel volume output. Next would be to pull up the rail one side at a time and see how each injector is spraying. See if #4 is spraying or not. Also you can try swapping the injectors, say put #4 into #1 slot ect and see if that injectors still gives problems or if it is the wiring to that spot.
A code may not be given for a simple clog, after all the electronics is working.
A code may not be given for a simple clog, after all the electronics is working.
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If you pull one whole side at a time, how can you run the engine to see how its spraying? They dont spray unless the engine is running I assume....
...color me confused....
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 10,923
Likes: 19
From: NM
Just unbolt the rail pull up the rail with all 4 O-Rings out. Gently sit it the injectors on top of the holes to keep a seal. Then start the engine and slightly lift up the rail just enough to see the spray use a flashlight if needed. Then check the other side.
Yes it will cause a vacuum leak and it will not run perfectly at that moment, but for a quick test that is all you need.
Yes it will cause a vacuum leak and it will not run perfectly at that moment, but for a quick test that is all you need.
Thread Starter
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Registered User
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Just unbolt the rail pull up the rail with all 4 O-Rings out. Gently sit it the injectors on top of the holes to keep a seal. Then start the engine and slightly lift up the rail just enough to see the spray use a flashlight if needed. Then check the other side.
Yes it will cause a vacuum leak and it will not run perfectly at that moment, but for a quick test that is all you need.
Yes it will cause a vacuum leak and it will not run perfectly at that moment, but for a quick test that is all you need.
But worth a try.....watch me shoot gas in my dam eyes. LOL
I am thinking of sending them all out to be cleaned professionally...someone suggested www.witchhunter.com Reasonable at $21 each. And after 103k + miles, and sitting a lot, probably need it anyways.
