3.9 Modifications and Economy
Cool! I appreciate the info. I believe the throttle body I was buying is a 50mm V8 unit.
If the upgraded throttle body is the same diameter, would there be any gains?
Should I get a 44mm one or are you basically telling me to keep it stock?
If the upgraded throttle body is the same diameter, would there be any gains?
Should I get a 44mm one or are you basically telling me to keep it stock?
You could live with a 44mm if you can find some that does them but any larger is a lose lose on your end.
I don't know if this is gonna get me killed
, but in my quest for knowledge, I stumbled across this:
http://www.dodgedakotas.com/boards/v6/15863.html
They seem to think a V8 throttle body was an ~amazing~ upgrade that brought performance and economy. It sounds as if you've personally tried it, but had opposite reactions. Just confuses me, I really appreciate your input and experience.
.
http://www.dodgedakotas.com/boards/v6/15863.html
They seem to think a V8 throttle body was an ~amazing~ upgrade that brought performance and economy. It sounds as if you've personally tried it, but had opposite reactions. Just confuses me, I really appreciate your input and experience.
.
I don't know if this is gonna get me killed
, but in my quest for knowledge, I stumbled across this:
http://www.dodgedakotas.com/boards/v6/15863.html
They seem to think a V8 throttle body was an ~amazing~ upgrade that brought performance and economy. It sounds as if you've personally tried it, but had opposite reactions. Just confuses me, I really appreciate your input and experience.
.
http://www.dodgedakotas.com/boards/v6/15863.html
They seem to think a V8 throttle body was an ~amazing~ upgrade that brought performance and economy. It sounds as if you've personally tried it, but had opposite reactions. Just confuses me, I really appreciate your input and experience.
.
I'm just trying to relay my experiences to but the choice is yours.
I appreciate it and that's exactly what I'm wanting to hear. Someone, who has actually tried this stuff.
I figured these motors have been around so long by now and that there would be a pretty straight forward answer to performance mods and effectiveness. But, I've found all kinds of misinformation on this matter. I'm going to take your advice and get a modified stock one. thanks
I figured these motors have been around so long by now and that there would be a pretty straight forward answer to performance mods and effectiveness. But, I've found all kinds of misinformation on this matter. I'm going to take your advice and get a modified stock one. thanks
Ok, so where do I go from here?
If I stick with a 42mm modified body, and get the 1.7 Roller Rockers....what is the next best mod?
I've been told (and agree) that gears would be the most beneficial power upgrade.
Again, I have spent the last decade or so building an 89 Toyota 4Runner, so I am used to those things and it is a manual transmission. I simply did the math and got the correct ratio (4.88's for 33's) when it came time for gears.
The Dakota messes me up because there are 3 possible ratios it came with....what axle ratio do I have? Furthermore, With an automatic, when I select gears is it advisable to be dead on or go a touch lower for power? I cruise at 75 80 on the freeway often and don't want it screaming!
If I stick with a 42mm modified body, and get the 1.7 Roller Rockers....what is the next best mod?
I've been told (and agree) that gears would be the most beneficial power upgrade.
Again, I have spent the last decade or so building an 89 Toyota 4Runner, so I am used to those things and it is a manual transmission. I simply did the math and got the correct ratio (4.88's for 33's) when it came time for gears.
The Dakota messes me up because there are 3 possible ratios it came with....what axle ratio do I have? Furthermore, With an automatic, when I select gears is it advisable to be dead on or go a touch lower for power? I cruise at 75 80 on the freeway often and don't want it screaming!
You may want to consider a set of EV1 Ford 19# 4 hole injectors. Will give you better fuel amoritzation in the combustion chamber. Check ebay for some good deals on a remanufactured set.
You probably have the 3.55 gears. Check inside the glove compartment for a sticker with the information or look for a tag on the rear diff cover. Cruising at 75-80 I don't think you want to go any lower than 4.10 gears.
You probably have the 3.55 gears. Check inside the glove compartment for a sticker with the information or look for a tag on the rear diff cover. Cruising at 75-80 I don't think you want to go any lower than 4.10 gears.
My door drivers side door panel and http://www.dakota-truck.net/infosheet.html say that my truck came with 195/75R15 stock!! 
I couldn't find a sticker in the glove box, but agree that I probably have 3.55's. Using this calculator: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html and 235/75R15, I am 8.9% off.
3.55 x 1.089 tells me my gears should be about 3.865 to get things functioning back to stock.
So, I could go a touch higher or lower. I think I'm going to go lower to 3.92 and then have my speedo calibrator compensate for the rest. I think that will give it a little extra oomph, but not have the rpms too terribly high on the freeway. Do 3.92's seem right?
Also, regarding those Ford #19 4 hole injectors, woudl they have an adverse effect on economy by causing more flow or are they effective simply because of improve atomization?
Thanks so much for letting me pick your brain. I really do search, this forum and the net, there is just a lot of conflicting data.
I couldn't find a sticker in the glove box, but agree that I probably have 3.55's. Using this calculator: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html and 235/75R15, I am 8.9% off.
3.55 x 1.089 tells me my gears should be about 3.865 to get things functioning back to stock.
So, I could go a touch higher or lower. I think I'm going to go lower to 3.92 and then have my speedo calibrator compensate for the rest. I think that will give it a little extra oomph, but not have the rpms too terribly high on the freeway. Do 3.92's seem right?
Also, regarding those Ford #19 4 hole injectors, woudl they have an adverse effect on economy by causing more flow or are they effective simply because of improve atomization?
Thanks so much for letting me pick your brain. I really do search, this forum and the net, there is just a lot of conflicting data.
Going to a 3.92 will only raise you rpms about 150-200 rpms and it's a good road gear.
The 4 hole injectors will actually increase you mpg if you control you right foot. You'll get a smoother idling engine and better throttle response.
The 4 hole injectors will actually increase you mpg if you control you right foot. You'll get a smoother idling engine and better throttle response.
Got my parts put on, but having some troubles.
42mm polished throttle body
Kegger mod (removed center divide, but kept egr port
JBA headers
Blue mopar performance injectors (I think22#)
Nology Plug Wires and Silver core non resistor plugs
It idles really rough, sounds like it has a cam or like a motorcycle.
If I stomp the pedal from a stop, it takes a good second before the truck even moves. definite delay.
It also has trouble starting and idles very low.
Overall it feels sluggish, but iff I floor it when driving it comes to life 3.5-5K it has strong pull.
Could this be from too big of an injector or too much airflow in the Intake?
It has maybe 40miles since computer reset.
42mm polished throttle body
Kegger mod (removed center divide, but kept egr port
JBA headers
Blue mopar performance injectors (I think22#)
Nology Plug Wires and Silver core non resistor plugs
It idles really rough, sounds like it has a cam or like a motorcycle.
If I stomp the pedal from a stop, it takes a good second before the truck even moves. definite delay.
It also has trouble starting and idles very low.
Overall it feels sluggish, but iff I floor it when driving it comes to life 3.5-5K it has strong pull.
Could this be from too big of an injector or too much airflow in the Intake?
It has maybe 40miles since computer reset.


