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Beginning the paint job/Few odd Projects

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  #11  
Old 04-21-2012, 08:49 PM
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Well thanks for the input motorcharge.
I got a mechanic to look at it today.
I've been given the thumbs up to continue using it. It didn't break through to the bands so the tires hardly compromised from what he said. He just advised turned the wheels around so the bad parts on the inside. We'll be hitting it with a bit of urethane to just to fill the gap.

Good news for me

Edit: Good news because even with my discount for where I worked I wasn't looking forward to forking out money for new tires lol!
 

Last edited by Rabid21; 04-21-2012 at 08:53 PM.
  #12  
Old 04-21-2012, 11:02 PM
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I'd have a few people look at it. The sidewalls aren't that thick, it may not have gone through the bands, but the sheer pressure you're dealing with in a tire can make it go through pretty easily. On the road you should be fine, but definitely don't offroad with it.
 
  #13  
Old 04-22-2012, 01:02 AM
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Call me stupid but I did all last year :P
There has been no visible changes to it.

I'm going to run it for now and slowly make a fund for new tires. Since if I'm going to get new ones(again) I'm going bigger. I'm not wasting money on another set of 235s they look way to small on my truck to be honest. I do realize that my tire is compromised but I simply don't have the funding for a new set. I've got a spare with me so if worse case scenario happens I should be fine long enough to get a new set on.

On a more happier note lol.
I'm going to get some painting practice in tomorrow with my tailgate since last years "Repair" on it was S***** at best so it needs smoothing, and thicker primer etc etc.
 
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Old 04-23-2012, 12:02 AM
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If it is cool with you I will throw my 2 cents. DO NOT use rattle can, it will look ok at the beginning but will suck. I learn't that mistake the hard way and painted the whole truck with it. You will get problem's with it not laying out perfectly, with each rattle can spray a "different" mixture/velocity even if they are all new cans of the same paint. become tacky and smear easily, and wont stick on your truck for very long. Mine lasted 6 months. Also depending on what color you use it can get bleached by the sun, my hood has that problem. I would advise to use a compressor and work at it in small chunks if yours isn't big, mine isn't either. Or if you still don't want to use the compressor than roll on the paint with a brush/roller. Or spend the money to get it painted properly it will save you in the long run, and not have the grieve that i did. There's my 2 cents.
 
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Old 04-23-2012, 12:24 AM
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I'm going to "Test" the rattle can approach on my tailgate first.

We'll see how it goes. I appreciate the advice though T.C.

I'd honestly love to go with the roller approach but I'm concerned that the paint will look bumpy when its done.
 
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Old 04-23-2012, 01:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Rabid21
-I'd love to plastidip my rims if I could find a freaking place that sells it. (Stupid Canada)
Yeah...I know the feeling. My buddy works at an auto parts distributor, and Plasti-Dip can't make it fast enough. Orders have been on backorder for quite a while now.
 
  #17  
Old 04-23-2012, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Rabid21
I'm going to "Test" the rattle can approach on my tailgate first.

We'll see how it goes. I appreciate the advice though T.C.

I'd honestly love to go with the roller approach but I'm concerned that the paint will look bumpy when its done.
The roller approach works pretty well. I did both my trucks with it.

Use a smooth foam roller, the nap ones will leave bumps/hairs in your paint.

Lightly thin the rustoleum with acetone. I think I used 1/2 gal paint / 4oz acetone to do 4 coats on my truck.

The main problem with roller is inside the jambs/hard to reach spots. I used a brush and it looks ****ty. You'd probably have better success with lots of masking and rattle cans for the jambs.

That said, it holds up pretty well. It's been almost 3 years since I painted my 4x2 and aside from all the work scratches the paint is holding up well. It's only peeling around the raised letters on the tailgate - which is an area that is particularly abused from working.
 
  #18  
Old 04-23-2012, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by buick
The roller approach works pretty well. I did both my trucks with it.

Use a smooth foam roller, the nap ones will leave bumps/hairs in your paint.

Lightly thin the rustoleum with acetone. I think I used 1/2 gal paint / 4oz acetone to do 4 coats on my truck.

The main problem with roller is inside the jambs/hard to reach spots. I used a brush and it looks ****ty. You'd probably have better success with lots of masking and rattle cans for the jambs.

That said, it holds up pretty well. It's been almost 3 years since I painted my 4x2 and aside from all the work scratches the paint is holding up well. It's only peeling around the raised letters on the tailgate - which is an area that is particularly abused from working.
Nice I was hoping to hear some info on your paint roller job!. I'm actually painting my truck the same red that is already partially on it so door jams aren't gonna be much of an issue for me. Since the red is what is inside the door jams so aside from a liiittle bit of white behind the box its not gonna be to rough.

Do you think you could post up a close up photo of your paint job just so I could see? I hate to say it but I'm slightly **** about this whole paint job because I tend to overthink things lol.
 
  #19  
Old 04-23-2012, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Rabid21
Nice I was hoping to hear some info on your paint roller job!. I'm actually painting my truck the same red that is already partially on it so door jams aren't gonna be much of an issue for me. Since the red is what is inside the door jams so aside from a liiittle bit of white behind the box its not gonna be to rough.

Do you think you could post up a close up photo of your paint job just so I could see? I hate to say it but I'm slightly **** about this whole paint job because I tend to overthink things lol.
I'll take some close-ups for you tomorrow. My truck is over at my shop with the intake manifold torn off, didn't take my computer with me so I didn't see this to take pics of it today.

It actually looks pretty slick up close. Like I said, the main issue is the jambs/between bed+cab (which I should have painted while the bed was off, but I wasn't thinking). It's definitely looks best at 10ft/10mph, but it's comparable to a Maaco job for $40 instead of $400.

I'm not sure if they can tint white rustoleum to match your red, but I'm pretty sure canned rustoleum comes in very limited colors - white, black, safety red, safety orange, safety yellow is all they had at my local depot. The rustoleum red is very bright. Something to look into.

edit: here are a couple of semi-close up pics. I'll take better ones tomorrow.

Beginning the paint job/Few odd Projects-vcof1l.jpg
same pic, bigger: http://imgur.com/VcOF1

Beginning the paint job/Few odd Projects-sb1vjl.jpg
same pic, bigger: http://imgur.com/sB1Vj
 

Last edited by buick; 04-23-2012 at 03:27 PM.
  #20  
Old 04-23-2012, 10:07 PM
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Why I mentioned to roll on the paint is cause we have a 1965 jeep gladiator, that was red and rusting, we fixed the rust and used white roll on paint to pay tribute to CANADA!!!, that truck was painted about 35 years ago, still going strong. Like buick said, you can smooth down the paint, and if your **** about the door jam and parts where its hard to paint, that all comes along with good prepping, for my rattle can paint job, it took me a week in taking the door, fender, bed, etc off and sanding. But the paint screwed me over. Last time I buy princess auto paint.
 


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