Burning Oil at cold start
Hey everyone,
I recently bought a 1994 Dakota SLT 2wd with 153k. Well I have been giving it the TLC thats needed to get it up to par so I can continue to have it as a daily driver.
I noticed only in the morning when I start it up I am getting a gray smoke from the tail pipe until its warmed up. It's 70 degrees in the morning so I doubt it is from the temperature outside. Anyways i have been looking around on the forum and have come across a few threads that have the same issues. Before I tear into it I just want to see what you guys think because some of those posts are really old.
Symptoms:
-Smoke in morning on cold start
-Slight ticking coming from engine only when accelerating
-Burnt about a half quart of oil last week with about 30 miles of driving a day
Thanks guys let me know what you think.
TrojanDak
I recently bought a 1994 Dakota SLT 2wd with 153k. Well I have been giving it the TLC thats needed to get it up to par so I can continue to have it as a daily driver.
I noticed only in the morning when I start it up I am getting a gray smoke from the tail pipe until its warmed up. It's 70 degrees in the morning so I doubt it is from the temperature outside. Anyways i have been looking around on the forum and have come across a few threads that have the same issues. Before I tear into it I just want to see what you guys think because some of those posts are really old.
Symptoms:
-Smoke in morning on cold start
-Slight ticking coming from engine only when accelerating
-Burnt about a half quart of oil last week with about 30 miles of driving a day
Thanks guys let me know what you think.
TrojanDak
Ok so I have done some more research and the plenum gasket seems to be quite a problem.
-pinging while accelerating
-low oil
-white smoke at start
I have found a really good write up of how to check the plenum gasket. I am going to check it this weekend.
SUBJECT: Spark Knock And Engine Oil Consumption Due To Intake Manifold Pan
Gasket Oil Leak
DATE: Feb. 25, 2000
This bulletin involves the replacement of the engine intake manifold plenum
pan gasket.
NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLE EQUIPPED WITH A 3.9L, 5.2L. OR 5.9L
GASOLINE ENGINE.
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
An engine intake manifold plenum pan gasket oil leak may occur on some V-6
and V-8 style engines. The oil leak is internal to the engine so no external
oil leakage will be present. Two symptoms of this oil leak condition may be
present. The vehicle operator may experience an engine spark knock during
acceleration and/or an increase in the amount of engine oil consumed by the
engine.
DIAGNOSIS:
Inspect the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve. Shake the PCV valve
to verify that the pintle inside of the PCV valve is free. Replace the PVC
if the pintle is not free.
If the intake manifold plenum pan gasket is leaking, an additional vacuum
source will be created inside of the engine at the location of the pan
gasket leakage. Engine combustion blow-by gases, oil vapor, and air from the
crankcase filter/breather may be drawn past the leaking pan gasket and into
the intake manifold. In most cases when this condition occurs, an engine at
idle will create the highest vacuum and lowest amount of engine blow-by.
1.. Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature.
2.. Stop the engine.
3.. Disconnect the breather hose from the air cleaner.
4.. Attach a vacuum / pressure gauge to the end of the breather hose
(Figure 1).
5.. Disconnect the PCV valve hose from the intake manifold.
6.. Seal off the intake manifold PCV valve hose port opening.
7.. Seal off the open end of the PCV valve hose (Figure 2).
NOTE: DURING THIS DIAGNOSIS, IT WOULD BE NORMAL FOR THE ENGINE TO DEVELOP
PRESSURE WITHIN THE ENGINE CRANKCASE. THIS IS DUE TO THE NORMAL PROCESS OF
EXHAUST BLOW-BY GASES LEAKING PAST THE ENGINE PISTON RINGS AND ACCUMULATING
IN THE ENGINE CRANKCASE. DO NOT ALLOW MORE THAN 3 PSI (20.7 kPa) OF PRESSURE
TO BUILD WITHIN THE ENGINE WHEN PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING DIAGNOSTIC
PROCEDURE.
8.. Start the warmed engine and observe the vacuum gauge.
9.. Allow the engine to idle for approximately 30 seconds. Do not allow
more than 3 psi (20.7 kPa) of pressure to develop in the engine crankcase.
10.. If the attached vacuum / pressure gauge does not indicate that a
vacuum is present in the engine crankcase, then the intake manifold plenum
pan gasket is good and no further internal engine vacuum leak diagnosis is
required.
11.. If an internal vacuum leak is present then perform the Repair
Procedure.
12.. Remove intake and install plenum gasket
-pinging while accelerating
-low oil
-white smoke at start
I have found a really good write up of how to check the plenum gasket. I am going to check it this weekend.
SUBJECT: Spark Knock And Engine Oil Consumption Due To Intake Manifold Pan
Gasket Oil Leak
DATE: Feb. 25, 2000
This bulletin involves the replacement of the engine intake manifold plenum
pan gasket.
NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLE EQUIPPED WITH A 3.9L, 5.2L. OR 5.9L
GASOLINE ENGINE.
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
An engine intake manifold plenum pan gasket oil leak may occur on some V-6
and V-8 style engines. The oil leak is internal to the engine so no external
oil leakage will be present. Two symptoms of this oil leak condition may be
present. The vehicle operator may experience an engine spark knock during
acceleration and/or an increase in the amount of engine oil consumed by the
engine.
DIAGNOSIS:
Inspect the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve. Shake the PCV valve
to verify that the pintle inside of the PCV valve is free. Replace the PVC
if the pintle is not free.
If the intake manifold plenum pan gasket is leaking, an additional vacuum
source will be created inside of the engine at the location of the pan
gasket leakage. Engine combustion blow-by gases, oil vapor, and air from the
crankcase filter/breather may be drawn past the leaking pan gasket and into
the intake manifold. In most cases when this condition occurs, an engine at
idle will create the highest vacuum and lowest amount of engine blow-by.
1.. Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature.
2.. Stop the engine.
3.. Disconnect the breather hose from the air cleaner.
4.. Attach a vacuum / pressure gauge to the end of the breather hose
(Figure 1).
5.. Disconnect the PCV valve hose from the intake manifold.
6.. Seal off the intake manifold PCV valve hose port opening.
7.. Seal off the open end of the PCV valve hose (Figure 2).
NOTE: DURING THIS DIAGNOSIS, IT WOULD BE NORMAL FOR THE ENGINE TO DEVELOP
PRESSURE WITHIN THE ENGINE CRANKCASE. THIS IS DUE TO THE NORMAL PROCESS OF
EXHAUST BLOW-BY GASES LEAKING PAST THE ENGINE PISTON RINGS AND ACCUMULATING
IN THE ENGINE CRANKCASE. DO NOT ALLOW MORE THAN 3 PSI (20.7 kPa) OF PRESSURE
TO BUILD WITHIN THE ENGINE WHEN PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING DIAGNOSTIC
PROCEDURE.
8.. Start the warmed engine and observe the vacuum gauge.
9.. Allow the engine to idle for approximately 30 seconds. Do not allow
more than 3 psi (20.7 kPa) of pressure to develop in the engine crankcase.
10.. If the attached vacuum / pressure gauge does not indicate that a
vacuum is present in the engine crankcase, then the intake manifold plenum
pan gasket is good and no further internal engine vacuum leak diagnosis is
required.
11.. If an internal vacuum leak is present then perform the Repair
Procedure.
12.. Remove intake and install plenum gasket
I have a 99 durango with the 5.2L engine. I have changed the oil twice on it since I bought it. I changed the oil pump, gasket on the pan. It loses oil within 1500 miles of the change and I usually have to add 2-3 quarts. I use a 20W 50 oil. There are no visible leaks on the ground so I don't believe it leaks. I don't see any smoke coming from the tail pipe either. What could it be?
Trending Topics
I have a 99 durango with the 5.2L engine. I have changed the oil twice on it since I bought it. I changed the oil pump, gasket on the pan. It loses oil within 1500 miles of the change and I usually have to add 2-3 quarts. I use a 20W 50 oil. There are no visible leaks on the ground so I don't believe it leaks. I don't see any smoke coming from the tail pipe either. What could it be?
Do you have heavy power loss under load (hills in particular?), engine popping/rattling/shaking?
Read the post a few above yours. If you've got those other symptoms, it's likely the plenum.
Follow the instructions from a couple posts above that I posted. If it is the plenum gasket here is a kit that will fix the problem. I am going to check mine tomorrow afternoon.
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...JlcGFpciBLaXRz
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...JlcGFpciBLaXRz
No there is no loss of power from what I can tell. So if it is the plenum gasket where is that at and how hard would it be for a very amateur mechanic to do?


