You have to remove the rivets, then remove the track on the bottom of the window. With just a glass edge you can push it behind the rubber stopper on the bottom of the door (that is if you removed the stopper at the bottom of the track as well) the bottom glass edge will rest in the water channel, it will be a tight squeeze and probably scratch up the bottom of yur window where it does not show. I put brand new belt seals in from the dealership and they made no difference with holding out water.

 

I am looking for a set of those, were they expensive from the stealership? It sounds like a bit of a b to put them in.

 

$100 per door/belt and they are a wikid pain unless you are familiar with the procedure. Do you have power doors or manual locks and windows?

$280 for everything pictured below:

 

We have power doors and windows and we do have the other window rubbers, just need the belts that fit inside and outside the door panels. Would you happen to have a part number for us? Oh yeah and if you are not too busy one day maybe you could pop over and do the job for us. lol

 

I was guna say just let them go but with power doors they need to stay a bit more water tight.

You will not find these anywhere but the dealer I looked for dozens of hours online:
4260134 -Right
4260135 -Left

Really though the design does not hold back water, your seals have to be pretty rough to consider replacing them. The window channel seals wear just as fast as the belt, 50% of your water is coming in through and down your window channel seal I can guarantee.

 

Got mine from Raybuck auto online for $55 sent to me. They look good and look correct, but I've yet to install them.

Item: 1987-96 Dodge Dakota Beltline Seals (Outer) (WFP311087)

Maybe next weekend I'll get to it, and can take pictures.

 

WHAT!? lol

 

I just removed 2 windows from a 1994 Dodge Dakota SLT. No drilling of rivets and no destroying those little black clips on the window.

Here's what I did:
1. Remove the door panel.
2. On the bottom of the door, loosen and remove the 2 bolts holding the rear glass channel.
3. Lower the window all the way down.
4. Remove the screws that are holding the belt weatherstrip molding. (horizontal strip on the door)
5. Remove the 2 screws in the back glass channel.
5. CAREFULLY begin to remove the weatherstripping around the window opening. When you get to the back to the back glass channel part be even more careful. The rear glass channel is inside the weatherstripping and you can total screw it up if you jerk on it or bend it.
6. Keep working on that weatherstripping with the rear glass channel in it until you get it freed up and then pull it straight up and out of the door.

The window is pretty much free except for the arm that raises and lowers it.

7. Move the window up and down and back and forth while you manipulate the control arm. You may be able to get it free.

8. If you cant, unbolt that mechanism and remove it from the door.

Now the window is totally free inside the door.

9. Rotate the window in down and to the front of the door. Clock wise on a driver door and counter on a passenger door.

10. Use the end of a hammer to gently pry the gap in the top of the door open a little so you can get the window out easier.

11. Carefully pull the window up and out of the door.

If you did it right, you dont have to mess with the rivets or the plastic guides and the rear channel guide can go back in the door too.

 

Trust me I'm a pro at this now, words can not describe how to remove these suckers!

 

I'm seeing Waffen SS and Triad logos on your bolt heads. You must have skirmishes going on daily in that door!