I have read tons of threads on removing the window but none seem to help me...I really need this done soon. I've read to remove the bolts holding the bottom of the vertical tracks so they can flex:




Then to push the window out of the track (in front or behind I forget) I tried both, only was successful with the track above the speaker. I was able to get the glass both in front and behind it with no help, I read the window needs to be rotated toward the mirror clockwise. The opposite window side seems locked into its track with some sort of a sliding block, I also read there are two bolts squeezing the track on the bottom of the window edge and to remove those. Well I don't have two bolts I have two pop rivets...and I am about ready to drill them out and replace them with bolts!




Will someone please help me, has anyone seen two large rivets instead of bolts before??

 

I drilled the rivots on mine, but I have a rivot gun so be sparing with the locktite on the new fasteners if you go that route. The rearward track should be loosened and detracked from the glass to give the glass a little extra "moveability". Once the glass is separated from the arm, you can rotate it out. Hope that helps, It is tight though.

 

When in doubt refer to the factory service manual.

WINDOW GLASS SEAL REMOVAL
When removing door window glass weatherstrip
seals (including the beltline weatherstrip moulding),
open the window glass completely.
The window glass channel weatherstrip seals can
be removed by hand or with the aid of a small putty
knife (or similar tool).
The window glass beltline weatherstrip moulding
(Fig. 7) can be removed according to the following
procedure.
(1) Remove the door trim panel (or, if applicable,
the access panel), the waterdam and the noise insulator.
If necessary, refer to the removal procedure.
(2) Open the window glass (move the glass down
into the door).
(3) Remove the retaining screws and the beltline
weatherstrip moulding from the door (Fig. 7).

WINDOW GLASS SEAL INSTALLATION
When installing door window glass weatherstrip
seals (including the beltline weatherstrip moulding),
open the window glass completely.
(1) To install door window glass channel weatherstrip
seal, start at the upper, rear corner.
(2) A small amount of adhesive can be used to retain
the weatherstrip seal in-place, if necessary.
(3) Move forward and downward evenly until the
weatherstrip seal is fully seated in the channel.
(4) Position the beltline weatherstrip moulding on
the door panel and install the retaining screws (Fig.
7). Tighten the screws securely.
(5) Install the noise insulator, the waterdam and
the door trim panel (or, if applicable, the access panel).
If necessary, refer to the installation procedure.

 

I had to replace mine a couple years back. 1994 dodge dakota, I wouldn't mess with those rivets in the glass. I took my weather stripping & track out first. I had to get a illustration like Crazy4x4RT posted. The hardest part is getting it off & on the glass channel. Once you get it off the glass channel you might have to take a plastic wedge or end of a hammer rubber & pry a larger space where you can pull the window through the door without scratching it. That's my 2cents.

 

It was the rear slider track I could not free the window from, now in the diagram I see there is a small set screw holding it in a wedge. I still don't see how I am suppose to free the gliding wheels from the lift channel but I still see after removing that set screw (if I can do it without the tool). If not I will drill those rivets I have a rivet gun and probably some rivets that large too.

 

I used to replace auto glass way back in the day and when we had to replace windows regulator assemblies some were riveted like ours and we would drill the heads off and the new regulators would come with bolts to replace the rivets. Just be very careful not to over tighten or you will bust the glass. Also use some lock tight on the bolts so you don't have to worry about them backing out with vibration from the stereo system.

 

Great point JR318, I Forgot to ask if he had power windows or manual. Mine were manual,
I thought he was asking to drill those rivets in the glass channel lift. If he has power windows, there is no other way to get that glass out without drilling the rivets on the regulator and replacing them with nuts & bolts exactly what you've said. Sorry for the confusion.

 

I DO have manual crank windows, and I'm almost certain there is no way I'm pulling that channel out. I have decided to save myself the trouble and just drill them out, I think I would rather replace them with just rivets instead of bolts so that way I know they will not get backed out and I can't over tighten them that way either. I'm installing extremely powerful K2 power series door speakers so bolts sound good too...

 

This is what I did, I drilled them out and then reused the washer that goes on the backside of the lift channel. I did not remove the window from the door but removed it from the tracks and dropped it low enough in the door to access the belt weatherstrip molding, the edge slider can be easily popped out of the track with a flat-head if you un-snap it first. The washer still had a piece of the old rivet in it in the photograph:

 

I'm working towards replacing the beltline weatherstrip. Am I missing something, because according to the manual (which is referred to in post 3) it looks like you should be able to R&R it without removing the window. I don't see how this is possible though, because with the window down it's still in the way of 3 screws. I'm just making sure I'm not crazy.