No start?
Ive read forums here of a No start being corroded wires on the 93s n up.Is this something that also happens on the 92s? MIne sputtered and died out today and I have also been having trouble getting it to start the last few days.By not starting I mean as in no connection.Had to turn the key 3-4 sometimes 5 times fore it would even turn over.
Checking it out today.When the starter did engage it turned right over and started but now will not start at all and still having issue with starter engaging.When turning the key to on position dash lights come on but when turning the key to "start" position does nothing(most of the time) then yesterday it sputtered as running outta gas and died on me.NOW when starter engages(when it wants to) it will not start like "no fuel".Gonna check the splice,relays and as you mentioned spark and fuel pressure..Was reading more threads on "no starts" and wondered about the crankshaft position sensor.$44 locally here.Not long ago(4-5 months or so) I had an issue with it running poorly like bad timing.Changed the pressure regulator and BAM,truck's been running like a champ.Till now.Also,when I turn the key on I can hear the fuel relay engage as I've read here also.Having a rainy day here and I have no garage so I'm educating myself,lol...
Checked the splice earlier before our last downpour and it looks good.
Checked the splice earlier before our last downpour and it looks good.
Last edited by 1stG92; Jun 1, 2012 at 11:24 AM.
Here are a couple of pic's I took before my damn batteries died I got further into the harness..The notorious splice looks good.First pic is of a wire that wasn't even plugged into anything.Truck ran fine before so I now this isn't the problem just do not know what it is.Second is of a thicker wire repaired by the previous owner I'm guessing but wire splicing them together is alot smaller.To me,seems the current wouldn't be as it should BUT I don't know what this is either...
Update..The larger wire with the nasty looking splice I fixed goes to the battery but not sure of the other end did not trace it but to the firewall inside the harness..
Update..The larger wire with the nasty looking splice I fixed goes to the battery but not sure of the other end did not trace it but to the firewall inside the harness..
Last edited by 1stG92; Dec 26, 2012 at 11:47 AM.
I don't know what that single wire goes to. But in that same picture you can see a spliced wire that looks like it has green corrosion already on it.
As for the 2nd picture with the repaired wire, it doesn't look to good. I say to redo it, but that doesn't look like the power splices.
This link has good pictures of locations and the wires.
As for the 2nd picture with the repaired wire, it doesn't look to good. I say to redo it, but that doesn't look like the power splices.
This link has good pictures of locations and the wires.
Factory power slice that everyone has problems with looked great.Had a strong weld and no corrosion. The green on the spliced wire in the first pic is where that one IM holding came off of.Was never connected to anything when I got the truck.The second one I respliced didn't like the looks of it.I think I have found the issue and is with my distributor.For the second time the rotor button has dug grooves just above the connections inside the cap.Thinking the bearings are worn n the rotor causing it to wobble.Maybe??? Truck was running like a new for last 5-6 months tilll now so HOPING it's nothing too major.Luv this truck!
Last edited by 1stG92; Jun 1, 2012 at 06:11 PM.
With more searching and testing I have found there is no power going to the coil.Pulled dist. cap off and turned over button not moving.Think timing chain broke.Tackeling this MOnday.
Last edited by 1stG92; Jun 2, 2012 at 07:34 PM.


