Parking Pall
#1
07-17-2012, 06:22 PM
#2
07-17-2012, 07:12 PM
IF it's the pall or the gear then the trans has to come apart
It might be just the rod that goes from the manual lever to the pawl
In which case you would just have to drop the valve body
try working with the pan off first
try and shove the rod with the ball on the pall in by hand- see if it is going all the way in and thereby moving pawl to its maximum into the gear- you can feel it
have someone else twist on the shaft or on one wheel with the other blocked to see if you have it locked for sure
adjust your bands while you are under there and a fluid change ATF-4 only
get some instructions on the best way/ tools to remove the shift and throttle levers
give him some help guys
always check/ replace the shift seal
It might be just the rod that goes from the manual lever to the pawl
In which case you would just have to drop the valve body
try working with the pan off first
try and shove the rod with the ball on the pall in by hand- see if it is going all the way in and thereby moving pawl to its maximum into the gear- you can feel it
have someone else twist on the shaft or on one wheel with the other blocked to see if you have it locked for sure
adjust your bands while you are under there and a fluid change ATF-4 only
get some instructions on the best way/ tools to remove the shift and throttle levers
give him some help guys
always check/ replace the shift seal
#3
07-17-2012, 10:31 PM
Professional
#4
07-18-2012, 05:45 AM
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IF it's the pall or the gear then the trans has to come apart
It might be just the rod that goes from the manual lever to the pawl
In which case you would just have to drop the valve body
try working with the pan off first
try and shove the rod with the ball on the pall in by hand- see if it is going all the way in and thereby moving pawl to its maximum into the gear- you can feel it
have someone else twist on the shaft or on one wheel with the other blocked to see if you have it locked for sure
adjust your bands while you are under there and a fluid change ATF-4 only
get some instructions on the best way/ tools to remove the shift and throttle levers
give him some help guys
always check/ replace the shift seal
It might be just the rod that goes from the manual lever to the pawl
In which case you would just have to drop the valve body
try working with the pan off first
try and shove the rod with the ball on the pall in by hand- see if it is going all the way in and thereby moving pawl to its maximum into the gear- you can feel it
have someone else twist on the shaft or on one wheel with the other blocked to see if you have it locked for sure
adjust your bands while you are under there and a fluid change ATF-4 only
get some instructions on the best way/ tools to remove the shift and throttle levers
give him some help guys
always check/ replace the shift seal
#5
07-18-2012, 07:33 AM
Thanks for the replies. Should have explained what the truck is doing . . . The truck wont start in park, you have to shift it to Neutral to start it. BTW the neutral safety switch has been changed, thought that might be the problem. We changed the fluid and adjusted bands about 6 months ago.
#7
07-19-2012, 08:09 PM
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#8
07-20-2012, 11:05 AM
disconnect the linkage and move it by hand
The neutral switch makes a connection with the outside pin to ground
the other outside pin is the back up lights (if you have the switch I'm thinking of)
you can see if there is contact made with an ohmmeter or other circuit tester
If it works in neutral then by moving one way or the other it should work in park
or does yours have the NSS on the steering column?
either way if the NSS is not working in park you may not be going into park far enough which concerns me more than having to start in neutral
The actuator in the trans is a metal roster-comb - I've never heard of one wearing out
anyone else?
Having the key in the start position in park and pushing up on the lever does nothing?
The neutral switch makes a connection with the outside pin to ground
the other outside pin is the back up lights (if you have the switch I'm thinking of)
you can see if there is contact made with an ohmmeter or other circuit tester
If it works in neutral then by moving one way or the other it should work in park
or does yours have the NSS on the steering column?
either way if the NSS is not working in park you may not be going into park far enough which concerns me more than having to start in neutral
The actuator in the trans is a metal roster-comb - I've never heard of one wearing out
anyone else?
Having the key in the start position in park and pushing up on the lever does nothing?
#9
07-21-2012, 09:20 AM
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Wyrmrider if I knew what you were talking about it try to help you out with this trans problem. I think your probably one of the only ones on here that knows about the insides of the trans. Im very good with engines and electrical but when it comes to trans I have no clue, its all foreign language to me. Ive never had anyone take time with me and explain how all the inners of a trans works. I admire you for having the knowledge you have on trans. I want to install a shift kit soon but even with that it will be taken somewhere to have done professionally. Sorry to interrupt the thread just wanted to praise you a little lol. But if it were me id remove the linkage from trans, manually put it in park and make the switch and have someone try to start it. That way you know for sure its internal.
Last edited by JR318; 07-21-2012 at 09:22 AM.
#10
07-22-2012, 01:24 AM
318
the "rooster comb" is like a letter W with a pivot at the bottom
The tips at the top push a button on the Neutral safety switch (the old torqueflyte style)
park= pushed the valley of the v = not pushed the middle of the w = pushed for neutral
if it just a little out of adjustment pushing up on the shift lever moves the W a little bit and may push the switch closed to ground = start
Since it starts in neutral there is nothing seriously wrong = getting stranded
You could put the gearshift in N , push up on the lever and turn the key to start then do the same thing while holding the lever down a little and see if you loose your start
from that or the park push the lever test you can figure out if your linkage is adjusted just a little too short or just a little too long
Do check for wear as you may find that getting it to start in park looses the ability to start in neutral without pushing or pulling on the lever
Bottom line is that we DO want park to be fully engaged
AS to the shift kit
Transgo has a video
download
Take a look a
and let us know what you think
You can do the shift kit
but even if you have it done you need to know what needs to be done so you can be sure they do it right/ completely
Decide ahead of time if you want "back to low"
Do you run your DC computer 24/7?
the "rooster comb" is like a letter W with a pivot at the bottom
The tips at the top push a button on the Neutral safety switch (the old torqueflyte style)
park= pushed the valley of the v = not pushed the middle of the w = pushed for neutral
if it just a little out of adjustment pushing up on the shift lever moves the W a little bit and may push the switch closed to ground = start
Since it starts in neutral there is nothing seriously wrong = getting stranded
You could put the gearshift in N , push up on the lever and turn the key to start then do the same thing while holding the lever down a little and see if you loose your start
from that or the park push the lever test you can figure out if your linkage is adjusted just a little too short or just a little too long
Do check for wear as you may find that getting it to start in park looses the ability to start in neutral without pushing or pulling on the lever
Bottom line is that we DO want park to be fully engaged
AS to the shift kit
Transgo has a video
download
Take a look a
and let us know what you think
You can do the shift kit
but even if you have it done you need to know what needs to be done so you can be sure they do it right/ completely
Decide ahead of time if you want "back to low"
Do you run your DC computer 24/7?