I appologize for the long winded into, just want to introduce myself and thank everyone who makes the site so helpful and informative.

So I've been doing a lot of up keep lately on my newly aquired, but old 92 Dakota 4x4 5.2. It's got a relatively newly rebuilt motor and tranny (less than 20,000 miles). But sat mostly idly by in my parents drive way for 5+ years since. Thanks too the FAQ section and help from members here I've solved about 90% of my issues I've come across since getting this truck from help on this site. So thank you to everyone who has contributed and shared experiences here.

I've also done a few mods like a e-fan install and a new exhaust system. But now I really need to do some stuff thats never been touched on this 144,000 mile truck. I need new ball joints, sway arm bushings, pitman arm and possibly some tie rod ends too. Also need new u joints for my tailshaft and a new seal for the rear end.

And again, from all the help I've gotten here I feel comfortable in taking them on. But now I really want to lift this bad boy. I'm looking at this kit on eBay

Lift kit

Questions are:

-How big of tires can I go? I'm wanna get 33"s.

-Can I use stock shocks? If not what is recommended? I would prefer something inexpensive I can get at a chain auto store.

-How will performance and mileage change from going to 33's? Should I be looking into getting my front and rear ends re-geared?

-Lastly any recommendations on tires? I have BGF T/A KO in 30" right now and like them a lot. I would want something more snow friendly than mud friendly as that's where most of my poor traction driving is.

 

Yes you can fit 33's. That lift kit will work, but I would recommend Add A Leafs (AAL) vs lift (Cheater) blocks. Yes your stock shocks will work.

Performance and MPG will go down a bit, but not to much regearing is best. A

As for tires the best for deep snow is going to be mud tires. For pavement streets with snow some snow all-terrains will be fine.

Post up pics of the electric fan install.

 

I thought about add a leafs before going with cheater blocks but I really don't want to stiffen up my suspension.

Not quite sure what you mean about re gearing, sounds like its not needed, but better to regear than not. Will the 33" wear down my driveline if I don't?

Will post e fan pictures later in new thread.

 

Re-gearing is best to keep the truck running like as if it had stock tires. Most people don't though so it is okay to do but not recommend. Without installing the correct gear ratio to make up for the larger diameter tire the MPG and HP will be down.

 

I had figured that would be the case with the MPG and HP situation. My concern was how much of a difference it would make and what other people were doing. If I wanted to go for bigger tires or lift, I would probably go with a solid axle swap in the front which I imagine would mean regearing one or both axles.

 

New torsion keys are great for the front end, and add a leaf in the back. Here is mine with new keys, leafs later this month:

 

I'm curious why you guys prefer an add-a-leaf over a 2-inch block in the rear. In my experience, add-a-leafs ride like crap, but blocks don't change the ride at all. Axle wrap can become an issue if you use too-tall blocks, or you have a bunch of horsepower, but a 2-inch block with a stock engine will be fine, especially with stock gearing and reasonably-sized tires.

Not trying to argue. Just trying to see what your reasoning is.

 

I had cranked my torsion bars already and got some lift, maybe 1-2 inches. Now I'm wondering how much these new keys will actually give me. Your before and after pics are pretty similar to my results. What tire size are you running?

Looks like about another inch of travel until my lower control arm hits the bottom stop. Does that translate into only 1 inch of actual suspension lift from here even the the new keys?

I'm thinking 33"s might not fit without a body lift also.

 

Yes, you can only go until the control arm cannot drop anymore, and thats not good, you need to have downward suspension travel. That is where the issues arise for us, basically 2-3 inches of lift up front is MAX with torsion bar cranking/keys. Anything more and you need to start fabricating. Also, you have to watch your cv angle, you don't want them much off from straight at ride height because that puts extra strain on them.

 

I got 2 3/4 inches of lift without sacrificing any ride comfort. running 30x9.5x15 on 15x8 Cragars I just got today