That will cause a no start issue. Did you reset the PCM after you replaced it? If you already replaced it, possibly you got a bad new one. or the wiring to the sensor is bad. We have the factory service manual in the FAQ in this section. Just a few posts above this one thats where you can find the wiring diagrams.

 

Thanks... I'll check it out... I'll relook over the wires running to the pickup assembly and I'll look at the wiring to the crank sensor as well.... How do you go about resetting the computer though? - The computer I got should be okay because it came out of a dakota that runs fine from my grandfather (it has a bent frame and is in rough cosmetic shape), we use it kind of as our part truck to swap parts in and out of our dakotas (he has one that he drives around on the farm), my main concern with swapping it was the fact that it was out of a '93 and not a '95 3.9

 

To reset just unplug the battery for a few mins.

 

Haha okay, it sounded more complicated than that, but I'll give it a whirl a give everything a good lookover again. Thanks for the help, hopefully I'll get things back in order in the next day or so...

 

you got a good year there compurers on these trucks can swap between 92-95 unless the smog ***** get their panties in a bunch for not being same year as the truck I have a 94 computer in my 93
(came with tranny as I converted mine from auto to a manual)

I'm glad you can work on your truck, sorry I just had to vent a bit as around here people got the mistaken idea that they should not ever have to open their hood and vehicles should never need any work..... and it's always the vehicle thats a POS; these trucks can't change out their own parts when they need maintenance! and if you do open your hood then you must drive a POS.... (more part of typical thinking these days)

 

I completely agree with you volaredon, people today are willing to shell out money too quickly to fix problems that could be done in their own driveway... And I also have to say that its kind of ridiculous when probably well over half the guys I go to school with don't know how to change a flat or jump start a car....

.... And as far as my truck, checked over all the wiring splices and such and couldn't find any issues, then i reset the computer as crazy suggested, hooked the fuel tank and pump back up (I had it out cause i was thinking about getting the pump tested)... I took the truck for a little spin and it didn't stall out in the first few feet like it did, and it didn't at all then, so I'm hoping the problem has been solved... I feel like it may have been a combination of some of the things ive gone over because i had the battery disconnected before, but i didn't reset the computer each time i swapped in a new part or messed around with something. Just has been a real weird problem, but thanks for the help everyone

 

hope it's fixed for ya.

What gets me riled up the most is that while I understand not everyone is capable of working on their car or that those in that category take their cars in and pay someone who is capable;
those people should have the common sense to do so BEFORE they are stranded somewhere or the brakes "suddenly" go out;
NOT drive til it absolutely wont go (or stop) any more then blame the vehicle for being a POS--- when the blame comes from looking at the mirror and the person looking back has refused to MAINTAIN that machine.
I admit that once I know what part is "going" that I may be more likely to wait til payday to fix it. But I know the implications and what could happen if I don't fix something "right now" or by holding off "just a couple thousand more" miles before I decide to tend to my ride.

There are still people out there that are afraid of any car with over 100K miles on it.
There are people that I would rather see take their vehicle in and have work done; case in point when I worked the parts counter and I had to play shop teacher and show a customer where all the springs that they just bought for a drum brake, go. If you don't know then you shouldnt be working on such an important system; but you SHOULD be smart enough then to periodically take it in for a look; NOT wait til you hear grinding
it aint the car's fault that the driver wore the pads down into the rivets and ruined the rotors or drums but most people see it that way!
but people always blame the car when something like this happens
or the battery cable ends corrode to a point of not enough current being able to pass thru them to operate the starter motor. THAT AIN'T THE CAR'S FAULT!

 

Yeah I hear ya and definitely agree with what youre saying

 

alright i realize these posts are from a couple months ago but i figure i mite as well try. I have a 1995 dodge dakota w/5.2 auto four wheel drive. My problem seems to be the same except I've checked all the wiring put a brand new computer in changed the fuel pump, coil pack, distributor cap and rotor, crank and cam position censors, along with the battery and ignition box, plugs and wires, the idle air contorl valve and new exhaust but not the o2 sensor cuz im cheap like that. I get crappy fuel mileage the way it is so its not a huge loss. So any ways after all of these parts it still kills after about three miles with out a warning i dont know what is left any suggestions?

 

Did u try the 3 to 1 wires under the fuse box . mine were a mess when I took the tape off .also all my vacuum lines were cracked all over the place .had the same problem stalling with no warning think I got it beat just did a 4 hr trip with out a problem . Couldnt even go 20 min before