engine harness swap starts, runs, dies, no start
Ill try to keep this short. I have a 94 sport 3.9 5 speed ax15 rc sb. 197,000 on the clock
The other day i was checking for vac leaks and set the top of the motor on fire. got it out as fast as i could but still some burnt connectors and a bunch of burnt vac lines (created a bunch of vac leaks now lol)
anyway went to the junk yard and pulled a harness out of a 95 3.9 auto..... when i was putting in the "new" harness none of the connectors worked in the trans so i cut the trans connectors off and spliced in the ones for mine off of my old harness going purely off of color of wire.
so now there is no NSS and no connector and its all wrapped up nicely on top of the trans and the truck wont start. so i did a rolling push start and it fired and i drove it up and down the street pulled into the driveway and let it run.
NOW THE BIG PROBLEM
so i ran a push button on the dash from the starter and it worked, started the truck, ran for about a minute and shut off and wouldn't restart. since then its done it a few times after a day or two of sitting it does the same thing again.
Things I've Tried
checked the FP and ASD relays (good).
Fuel pump pumps when key on
spark at plug on first rev then no spark while turning over
checked solder point to ASD (its good)
also cleaned TB and replaced IAC valve
replaced both pos and neg battery cables and cleaned terminals
its not throwing a code (no CE light or stored code either besides 12 and 55)
My next step was going to be crank pos sensor or ecu but I really don't want to just keep throwing parts at this thing
sorry for the long post just want to give you guys as much info on it as possible.
Thanks for looking
The other day i was checking for vac leaks and set the top of the motor on fire. got it out as fast as i could but still some burnt connectors and a bunch of burnt vac lines (created a bunch of vac leaks now lol)
anyway went to the junk yard and pulled a harness out of a 95 3.9 auto..... when i was putting in the "new" harness none of the connectors worked in the trans so i cut the trans connectors off and spliced in the ones for mine off of my old harness going purely off of color of wire.
so now there is no NSS and no connector and its all wrapped up nicely on top of the trans and the truck wont start. so i did a rolling push start and it fired and i drove it up and down the street pulled into the driveway and let it run.
NOW THE BIG PROBLEM
so i ran a push button on the dash from the starter and it worked, started the truck, ran for about a minute and shut off and wouldn't restart. since then its done it a few times after a day or two of sitting it does the same thing again.
Things I've Tried
checked the FP and ASD relays (good).
Fuel pump pumps when key on
spark at plug on first rev then no spark while turning over
checked solder point to ASD (its good)
also cleaned TB and replaced IAC valve
replaced both pos and neg battery cables and cleaned terminals
its not throwing a code (no CE light or stored code either besides 12 and 55)
My next step was going to be crank pos sensor or ecu but I really don't want to just keep throwing parts at this thing
sorry for the long post just want to give you guys as much info on it as possible.
Thanks for looking
Last edited by JMNeel; Oct 17, 2012 at 02:57 AM.
no need for push button for starter take the middle wire from NSS and put an eyelet on it then screw to good ground. Take the 2 outer wires to NSS plug and splice your old backup light switch to them. just had to do this on the 93 that I pulled an automatic from and put a manual into dist pick up plug is also different gotta cut the one from the MT harness and put it on in place of same connector on AT harness rest should be the same! that was ALL the wiring mods I had to do! crank sensor or dist pickup would both cause this and neither is that pricey... 17 yo truck I wouldn't feel a bit bad about changing both of these.... quick easy job to do as well.
i dont get how nobody wants to put "any" money into a vehicle esp one with some miles on.... you obviously want it to still continue to get you from point A to B right?
they do need maintenance from time to time to allow them to continue to get you where ever... still much cheaper than a nagging car payment!!!
i dont get how nobody wants to put "any" money into a vehicle esp one with some miles on.... you obviously want it to still continue to get you from point A to B right?
they do need maintenance from time to time to allow them to continue to get you where ever... still much cheaper than a nagging car payment!!!
I appreciate your help, I will get under there and find that wire, the back up lights work so i got that part right.
also, its not that i dont want to put money into my truck. It is a big part of my life, i had it when i was in high school, it was my first truck and i finally got it back. I just dont want to start replacing parts that arent bad just to try to figure it out. I will absolutely put money into the parts that i know are bad (i just had the trans rebuilt)
also, its not that i dont want to put money into my truck. It is a big part of my life, i had it when i was in high school, it was my first truck and i finally got it back. I just dont want to start replacing parts that arent bad just to try to figure it out. I will absolutely put money into the parts that i know are bad (i just had the trans rebuilt)
no need for push button for starter take the middle wire from NSS and put an eyelet on it then screw to good ground. Take the 2 outer wires to NSS plug and splice your old backup light switch to them. just had to do this on the 93 that I pulled an automatic from and put a manual into dist pick up plug is also different gotta cut the one from the MT harness and put it on in place of same connector on AT harness rest should be the same! that was ALL the wiring mods I had to do! crank sensor or dist pickup would both cause this and neither is that pricey... 17 yo truck I wouldn't feel a bit bad about changing both of these.... quick easy job to do as well.
What i need to know is, will the NSS wire not being grounded keep the truck from firing or running after it fired?
Do you have proper fuel pressure?
Do you have spark to all plugs?
Do you have any check engine light codes?
Do you have power to the PCM?
right. once started the NSS (or that wire-grounded) is out of the picture. you have another issue, but for years I have seen people puttin a start button on Mopars because of a problem with theSS or its wiring.
I guess i will replace the crank sensor or dist pickup this weekend and hope like hell thats the problem.
All of the light on the dash turn on at key on including the CE so I think that means there is power to the PCM
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Thats good. I did the push button because it was easier than tearing apart the harness that i had just very neatly wrapped completely in cold shrink wrap.
I guess i will replace the crank sensor or dist pickup this weekend and hope like hell thats the problem.
I have not checked the actual fuel pressure but the pump turns on when it does run it runs great only for a minute though so fuel pressure should be good.
All of the light on the dash turn on at key on including the CE so I think that means there is power to the PCM
I guess i will replace the crank sensor or dist pickup this weekend and hope like hell thats the problem.
I have not checked the actual fuel pressure but the pump turns on when it does run it runs great only for a minute though so fuel pressure should be good.
All of the light on the dash turn on at key on including the CE so I think that means there is power to the PCM
dist pick up plug is also different gotta cut the one from the MT harness and put it on in place of same connector on AT harness rest should be the same!
In the FAQ right here the wiring diagram in the factory service manual shows that middle wire going to ground on body; that was exactly where I looked to see where it was supposed to go but being this truck was a 90s product i was surprised there wasn't some sort of "idiot proof" switch in there somewhere... dont take this the wrong way but only idiots need that clutch switch.... just like the stupid "Shift light"






