Hey! I bought a 1992 truck a little over a year ago. Since then the engine has cut off with no warning while driving about 5 or 6 times total. I think it's probably something electrical since it cuts off with no warning,but I'm sure where. Have any of you guys ever had or heard of this problem? I just thought if someone has had this problem before they could save me a lot of work. Any ideas?

Thanks in advanced!

 

When it cuts off does it start right back up?
Does it die at any RPM's? Or at any speed?
Does it only do it when it is cold or warmed up?

My guess it might be the notorious power splices if it doesn't start back up right away. Check the FAQ in this section, just a few posts above this one there is a great write up on it with pictures of locations.

 

It does start back up right away and only does it when it's warm. As for the speed, it usually happens when slowing down or making a turn. Thanks for the reply.

 

Interesting, my 93 with a 3.9 5 speed will do it when I am slowing down to turn, for me I simply push the clutch in and pop start it again and keep going. No idea why it does it, maybe since it has 224k miles might be a start, LOL. Otherwise it runs great. Possibly a vacuum leak?

 

I have some other problems too. The battery is draining, and now it won't even start. The battery is charged up and the engine turns over fine but it won't start. The switch is very sensitive and I'm wondering if all these problems could be connected to that. I don't know,just thinking.

 

I have a 1992 dodge dakota do tgat same exact thing. I located the problem as my computer box located right under the radio anntena. On the passenger side. If it ever don't start after shutting off try tapping it. I did that to make it run until I bought a new one.

 

Sounds to me like computer, or possibly the notorious faulty factory splices. I just recently bought a 92 dak 4x4 for cheap because the owner couldnt get it to stay running. Found a bad power splice (red/white) under the fuse box in the hood. After repairing the splice it was hit and miss somedays itd run others it wouldnt, tested computer and checked out fine. After struggling for awhile I ended up replacing the computer anyways ($150) and asd relay. Been running great ever since. My truck never threw any codes or anything and when we tested the ecu it came up fine (cause no codes were being thrown). If you need pictures or more info let me know, G/L :-)

 

I'd lean more towards the splices in this case. Could also be the vehicle speed sensor, or vss. When my vss went bad on my 93, the truck would die when slowing down unless I popped it into neutral and held the revs. Since the speedo on these things is cable driven until 94, you won't notice a bad vss otherwise.

Also, when my vss went bad, it didnt light up the check engine light, however when I checked for codes, it was telling me "torque converter clutch solenoid" when really the problem was just a bad vss. Replaced it, everything has been fine since

 

my 94 Dakota was doing the exact same thing and it turn out to be the wiring plug going into the ignition coil was loose. I replaced the plug and never had the issue agaun

 

I had the "cranks, won't start" issue and did a whole lot of research. Turns out there's a circle jerk of things, diabolically interrelated, that can all cause this. Most of them will not generate a code.

First, of course, is "the splice". It can cause the problem because it routes battery voltage (directly or indirectly) to the PCM, ignition coil, injectors, fuel pump relay and ASD relay. Any of these can in turn (and on their own) prevent the engine from starting and only one of them will create a code. The PCM de-energized may kick out code 12 (battery disconnected) once you restore power by repairing the splice. By then, you've probably already found your fault.

Next, if the PCM does not see a signal from the camshaft sensor (aka; distributor pick-up) within two seconds of turning the key, it drops out the ASD relay. Same result, but this will result in a code (code 11). The signal from the camshaft sensor comes into the PCM on pin 44 (perhaps depending on model year) of the PCM connector. So the camshaft sensor connector or PCM connector can cause the same problem as a bad sensor. The PCM connector can also convince you the PCM is bad. It can convince you the 2-300 dollar replacement you obtain from wherever is bad, too. CHECK THE CONNECTOR. The camshaft sensor (under the distributor rotor) and crankshaft position sensor (on the back of the engine block, passenger side, top, just along the edge of the bell housing) share the same 8 volt power from the PCM. Consequently, it is possible a bad crank sensor can drag down the signal from the camshaft sensor and the engine won't start. This may kick out code 54 (camshaft reference circuit on the fritz).

The final act in this three ring circus may be brought to you by the fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump which can also cause the problem without generating a code. The fuel pressure regulator is designed to use engine vacuum to reduce the pump pressure from 40 to 31 psi a second or so after starting. You need a fuel pressure test gauge to see this happen. If it doesn't and your vacuum is good, the regulator may need replacing. A vacuum gauge is great to have, but if your cabin heater doors work and the cruise control works, its pretty safe to say you have good vacuum. A fuel pressure gauge will also reveal whether the fuel pump is running. If not, it may mean the pump is bad or that power is failing to reach the pump. Power to the pump can be seen at pin 15 (often, a green/black wire here) of the blue receptacle/white connector found under the dash near the base of the steering column. Pin 4 of the pump connector (on top of the tank) is the hot lead. Pin 1 is gnd and the other two are the sending unit leads (one for the gauge and one for the "low fuel" lamp). If your fuel gauge is screwed up, your pump power may be too. Of course, the pump may be heard to run (or not) by listening at the fuel filler port as your helper turns the key. Remember the two second thing, however (see the third paragraph). An intermittent pump can often be made to run by striking the tank with a soft hammer. This is diagnostic for a pump on its way out.

If the vehicle speed sensor (vss) has failed, you won't have a cruise control, if you are so equipped. We occasionally hear talk of the IAC (idle air motor, which is located in a cavity on the back of the throttle body) in regard to this issue. This may make the ol' girl idle rough, but it generally won't keep 'er from starting. To truly beat this issue down, a FSM and Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures book on the '93 Dakota are the bomb. An OBD1 scanner and Dodge connector don't hurt, either.
This about sums up my experience with this bundle of joy, YMMV, good luck.