1st Gen Dakota Tech 1987 - 1996 Dodge Dakota Tech - The ultimate forum for technical help on the 1st Gen Dakota.

318 build up disappointing

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Old Mar 3, 2013 | 04:10 PM
  #11  
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JR318
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Another thing I just thought about is if you do a Efan conversion it will make a difference in the way the engine responds to part throttle because its not pulling the extra load. I used the HHR fan and a adjustable controller. I have had no issues at all with cooling and im running a 180 thermostat. The Efan doesn't really give you anymore power or torque but it does allow the engine to react quicker to part or full throttle. If I were you I would do the fastman TB and Efan conversion and im almost certain you will be pleased with the improvement it makes.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 12:23 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by JR318
Thanks for the complement on the wheels. The write up for the adjustment of the TPS includes opening up the holes where you mount the sensor and use a meter to pivot the sensor to fine tune the voltage reading. All the details are in the write up. I agree that all the TB does is provide air for the engine but with all the mods you have done the PCM will dump more fuel into the engine and without the right size TB the engine will not be able to adjust the air/fuel mixture to provide the desired level for maximum performance. The EGR valve is one thing I wish I could delete all together. I installed headers and bought the headers for a 96 because they don't have the connection on the passenger side header. I plugged off the tube going to the header and just left the electrical connector attached to the EGR valve. I plan to do the kegger mod later along with the Harland Sharpe 1.7 RR's. When I do the kegger mod im going to buy another factory intake for a 96+ so I can delete the EGR valve completely. Once I do that I need to figure out what to do with the electrical connector so the PCM thinks it is still connected.
If our egr connection works the same as GM's, the egr circuit is completed by a ground pin. Finding which pin it is and snipping it off and then plugging back into the receptacle should do it for you and fool the computer enough not to interrupt anything else. The cams in our trucks were bumped in 94 from under .400 lift to .430. This is at 1.6. 1.7 would increase your lift by about or around .30-.40. Your duration stays the same and that's the problem with our trucks. The duration is really short. I thnk I'd spend the money on a cam first but yes. it is more work. On our trucks you do not have to take off the front grille however. I had my cam reground by Comp. It is now at .262 duration with 462/485 lift. A very nice street cam with a little cam roll noticed at idle. Its lsa is @ 111. with no ravaging of gas mileage.
 
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